OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit

[Mandar715]

Hello all,

Not new to the forum been following the great builds and helpful information that you all provide, without this forum I would've never been to build my DNA30/SX-350 box mods but this will be my first post. I'm just getting into building my first okr-T/10 box mod and had a question does it matter what wattage is used for each resistor on the okr-T/10 they have 1/4 Watt all the way up to 2 Watts example 220 Ohm 1/4 watt and 220 Ohm 2 Watt.

Thanks..

[Breaktru]

Hello all,

Not new to the forum been following the great builds and helpful information that you all provide, without this forum I would've never been to build my DNA30/SX-350 box mods but this will be my first post. I'm just getting into building my first okr-T/10 box mod and had a question does it matter what wattage is used for each resistor on the okr-T/10 they have 1/4 Watt all the way up to 2 Watts example 220 Ohm 1/4 watt and 220 Ohm 2 Watt.

Thanks..

Glad to see you posting.
A 1/4 watt will be fine. You can go as low as 1/10 of a watt. Use a low tolerance rating. A 0.05% is recommended for accuracy but 1% will do.

[Mandar715]

Break Thank you

[mamu]

Do you have access to the STL file from that 3d design? I just got a 3d printer and I would love to try and make one!

Check thingiverse.com I saw some modding stuff - search voltmeter or volt meter or maybe it's bezel it's been a while since I saw one there.

[itsmedant]

Check thingiverse.com I saw some modding stuff - search voltmeter or volt meter or maybe it's bezel it's been a while since I saw one there.

I found one for the smaller digits....and a customize-able one, time to start playing around with that one to see if I can get it to the right size! Thanks again!

Oh my magnets got here last night, going to mount them in the new box today! Hopefully I'll have time to wire everything up and get it working. Just have to do this whole "job" thing today. hahaha

[Misturbubles]

Hey guys, seeking more help.  So I have connected up my okr to check voltage. I'm getting 8.2v across pin 2 and 3. When I check pin 4 I get .6 then it drops off. Nothing is connected to the chip other than power. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

[Misturbubles]

Just noticed I didn't ask my question. I meant to ask: is this normal?

[Misturbubles]

 I noticed I was checking incorrectly. I'm not getting a reading across 2 and 3 but getting 8.2v across 2 and 4. Is this normal?

[improntus]

Hi!
 
I have an on-off-on slide switch 6a 125v with 3 legs. I want to use it on my okr-t10 mod this way:

on: mod power on and voltmeter showing batt. volt.
off: mod off
on: mod power on and voltmeter showing imput volt.

I wonder if some one could tell me if its possible with this switch.

Thanks

[david4500]

This is for a DPDT on-off-on

On (Position 1) - Fire switch connected, battery voltage shown

Off (Position 2) - Fire switch disconnected, voltmeter off

On (Position 3) - Fire switch connected, output voltage shown when fired

[Breaktru]

I noticed I was checking incorrectly. I'm not getting a reading across 2 and 3 but getting 8.2v across 2 and 4. Is this normal?

Check your wiring for an error. Carefully identify the boards pin numbers.

[Misturbubles]

I checked to make sure I wasn't talking crazy, lol. Vin to Ground didn't give me a reading. Vin to Vout gave me 8.2v.

[bamanerd]

Happy Saturday everyone.

So... I've been playing the "waiting for parts" game for the last two weeks, and I only have a few hairs left to pull at this point.... I found out today that my OKR didn't ship with the rest of the order, even though it was listed as in stock when I placed the order (frustration supreme). So I sent them a nice little email, and kindly told them to keep it (MCM Electronics Parented by Farnell).

I'm going to order some boards today, so hopefully I'll be building by next weekend. I have a question, though. DigiKey has the following two 60 watt Raptors listed, and I was hoping that someone could tell me the difference between the "Power Module" and the "Converter." They look nearly identical on paper. Are they just from a different LOT, or are they actually different parts?

Power Module http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NQR010A0X4Z/555-1161-ND/2270975

Converter http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NSR010A0X4Z/555-1132-ND/1825125

Also.... Since the Pin-out is the same, and the loads are nearly identical, would the schematic be any different from the OKR-T/10? As far as the ratings of the components and such? I still plan to build the OKR-T/10, but I thought I'd order one of these to tinker with. I hope this isn't considered "off-topic" for the thread. I'm just wondering if the OKR schematic would be viable for this Raptor.

Side Note: I've thrown together a nice little mechanical box out of pure boredom. The damned thing hits great. I might actually keep it. I used a small 4x2x1 box from Radio Smack, 18G wire, a 3A@125VAC NO PB, a red LED with a 470ohm res, a single Keystone sled, and a FatDaddy 510.
Excuse the ugliness... I never intended for it to even be... it just kinda happened. I did take extra care in the wiring and soldering. I heat shrink wrapped everything and made sure that IF something came loose, it wouldn't touch anything it shouldn't. I don't think anything will come loose, though. I soldered everything quite well, and made sure that there is no tension on any of the solder joints. The "S" curve in the hot-wire to the atty is to compensate for the movement from the spring-loaded pin.

[bamanerd]

Well, the OKR-T/10 is oos everywhere. I was going to order a couple 60 Watt Raptors to play with, but I went with the 120 Watt Raptor. I only ordered one for now, but I probably should've gotten a few before they sell out again, so I may pick up a few more.

I still want to build an OKR or three, so I'll keep a check on stock. Until then... I guess I'll be moving this to Mamu's Raptor thread. Good luck everyone with your OKR builds!!

[Breaktru]

Well, the OKR-T/10 is oos everywhere. I was going to order a couple 60 Watt Raptors to play with, but I went with the 120 Watt Raptor. I only ordered one for now, but I probably should've gotten a few before they sell out again, so I may pick up a few more.

I still want to build an OKR or three, so I'll keep a check on stock. Until then... I guess I'll be moving this to Mamu's Raptor thread. Good luck everyone with your OKR builds!!

Why not go with the PTR08100W. They upped the specs from 50W to 55W and have gone down in price from 19.95 to 11.88
I have built many mods w/ this module.

[bamanerd]

Why not go with the PTR08100W.

Nice. I'll check it out.

[Misturbubles]

Please help. Got a new chip, had everything set up and now only getting a reading of .0 to .3 from Vout. I have a 100uf 10v cap across 2 and 3, another from 4 to 3. 220 ohm resistor on 5 to 200 pot. Any suggestions?

[blkbd]

Please help. Got a new chip, had everything set up and now only getting a reading of .0 to .3 from Vout. I have a 100uf 10v cap across 2 and 3, another from 4 to 3. 220 ohm resistor on 5 to 200 pot. Any suggestions?

Do you have the polarity of the caps running in the right direction?

[Misturbubles]

I believe so, I'll double check in the morning. Stripe or writing is negative, correct? They have been cut short already.

[blkbd]

I believe so, I'll double check in the morning. Stripe or writing is negative, correct? They have been cut short already.

Also I believe there is a 4.7K resistor connecting pins 1 and 3.

[Misturbubles]

Checked my caps, they are placed in correctly. I attached an addy and it fires but only getting .0 and .3 on the voltmeter.

[Misturbubles]

Ok, ran my multimeter on the 510 and I'm getting 3 to 6v, it's just not showing properly on the voltmeter. Maybe I have a bad voltmeter? But it shows the correct battery voltage.

[itsmedant]

So I still have no idea what caused my first build to short out but I just finished my 3rd one and it's working flawlessly.

Now I just gotta work on getting them to look a little cleaner on the inside. Anyone have tips on wiring these things up professionally?

[improntus]

TNKS for the DPDT diagram David4500! 

[CraigHB]

Anyone have tips on wiring these things up professionally?

Heat shrink tubing and wire is going to be the easiest thing to do.  If you want to make it look a lot cleaner, you can use a printed circuit board to eliminate most of the wires.  It's not all that hard to make your own PCBs.  I do it often, but I still send out to a shop for complicated ones.

It can be a bit tricky making PCBs, but once you get things ironed out it's pretty quick and easy.  Otherwise, Osh Park can fabricate your PCBs for an amazingly low cost, I mean it really is amazing how cheap they are from them.  There are limitations with PCBs when dealing with high currents, but you can resolve that by using a bus bar soldered to a host trace on the PCB.

[Misturbubles]

What could cause the chip to be stuck on 6v? Bad pot?

[Breaktru]

What could cause the chip to be stuck on 6v? Bad pot?

So, it was working correctly and then only outputs 6V? Could be a short across the pot. Check your pot wires for bridging.
A fixed resistor of 220 ohms with the pot shorted out will give you 6V

[itsmedant]

Heat shrink tubing and wire is going to be the easiest thing to do.  If you want to make it look a lot cleaner, you can use a printed circuit board to eliminate most of the wires.  It's not all that hard to make your own PCBs.  I do it often, but I still send out to a shop for complicated ones.

It can be a bit tricky making PCBs, but once you get things ironed out it's pretty quick and easy.  Otherwise, Osh Park can fabricate your PCBs for an amazingly low cost, I mean it really is amazing how cheap they are from them.  There are limitations with PCBs when dealing with high currents, but you can resolve that by using a bus bar soldered to a host trace on the PCB.

I actually used the OKR break out board from OSH Park on this last build. It worked fine minus the fast that the hole for the wires were too small to fit 22 gauge. I have to modify it a bit but it seems to be working just fine!

I need to figure out the best way to assemble this to make the wiring look clean. I use heat shrink and liquid electrical tape to keep everything safe, but i always end up with a mess of wires in the box when its done!

[BillsBerryDB3]

i just ordered the osh park board for the okr. only im going to use it with a raptor since the pins are the exact same

[wes]

Hi all,

Just read through the whole thread.. Great information and very helpful.

I'm in the process of learning as much as I can before building a okr t10 box mod.

I have a (possibly stupid) question about breaktru diagrams 1 and 2 in the op.

Can a zener be used if you do not use pin 1?
If so, between which parts should it be?

Many thanks,

Wes

[wes]

OK, since I don't understand the basics, can someone put me in the correct direction to learn more about the functions of an okr or like. I get the rest of the components and what they do, but the path, particularly through the OKR is still very hazy!! I don't want to build, or follow a diagram without understanding, so if anyone has some pointers on a good book or the like please let me know.

Cheers

Wes

[Visus]

OK, since I don't understand the basics, can someone put me in the correct direction to learn more about the functions of an okr or like. I get the rest of the components and what they do, but the path, particularly through the OKR is still very hazy!! I don't want to build, or follow a diagram without understanding, so if anyone has some pointers on a good book or the like please let me know.

Cheers

Wes

In the 1900's there was a crash at roswell



You tube has some really good videos explaining what buck and boosters are, how they work, and why they work like they do and how to build them from scratch.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCosnWgi3eorc1klEQ8pIgJQ

[wes]

In the 1900's there was a crash at roswell



You tube has some really good videos explaining what buck and boosters are, how they work, and why they work like they do and how to build them from scratch.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCosnWgi3eorc1klEQ8pIgJQ

Grand, thank you mate. Much appreciated 

[Drac0]

Hi guys,

Can some1 provide me chart with ohms/real ampers? some1 meassured it?

[cvilledustin]

Hello guys. Got a pretty dumb question here but what kinda amp rating should the fire button be?  Looking at the diagram I just see it can be non rated

[itsmedant]

Hello guys. Got a pretty dumb question here but what kinda amp rating should the fire button be?  Looking at the diagram I just see it can be non rated

It can only be non rated if you are using the p channel mosfet in your circuit

[cvilledustin]

Ah yes. I guess I didn't read that diagram too good. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to find that MOSFET and my order is complete

[itsmedant]

Ah yes. I guess I didn't read that diagram too good. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to find that MOSFET and my order is complete

It's all good! It can be confusing....i know i had tons of questions before my first one actually worked.

This is the mosfet i used

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=SUP75P03-07-E3-ND&WT.z_header=search_go

[mamu]

The P-channel MOSFET (SUP75 or whichever one you're using) is for the sole purpose of providing reverse polarity protection, it is not for being able to use a non-rated switch.

If you want to use a non-rated switch you must use pin 1 of the OKR - the wiring diagram shows how to wire.

cvilledustin - if using pin 1 of the OKR, any switch can be used the amp rating does not matter, even a small tact switch if you want.

[cvilledustin]

OK. Now the gears are turning. So I can either go pin 1 and get a nc switch of any rating or use the other pin and find a 3 amp switch.

Kinda funny when all the nice low profile anti vandal switches are 2 amp not 3 like the schematic calls for

[mamu]

OK. Now the gears are turning. So I can either go pin 1 and get a nc switch of any rating or use the other pin and find a 3 amp switch.

Kinda funny when all the nice low profile anti vandal switches are 2 amp not 3 like the schematic calls for

No, not an NC switch, you need a NO switch, and for the OKR-T10 you will need a 10A switch if not using pin 1 as you will be passing 10A of current through the switch if you vape at or near the max current limit of the T10.

You could possibly use a lower amp rated switch than 10A and hope it holds up, but it's not something I would recommend if you vape at max amp load.  I've used the Otto P9 and it's rated at 5A and have had great results with it.  But I don't max the amps of the converter though.

[Breaktru]

As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.
2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V

[cvilledustin]

As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.
2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V

Maybe this is where I was messing up. I looked at the first page and saw the low amp rating not using pin one

[mamu]

As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.
2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V

Do you have a source where there is a calculation that re-rates a switch from 2A @ 48VDC to 10A @ 8.4v and that in fact it can be done? 

I understand that you can probably safely assume a 2A switch could be used at a slightly higher amp at lower voltages, but how much higher is the question.  Can you safely push 10A through a 2A rated switch if using a lower voltage?  It just doesn't seem feasible to me.

I've spent some hours searching, but can't find a source for it.

I've found a few vague references, but nothing that indicates a switch can be re-rated from 2A to 10A even if used at lower voltages.

I found this post here for a build using the OKR-T10: http://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/1xvujz/almost_finished_my_okrt10_box_mod_aka_the_bruce/

switch rated at 2A/48VDC, should not be used for switching input power. Use only for switching power to remote control pin of OKR.

From my search of re-rating switches, quite a few reddit threads came up where reddit modders have a lot to say that re-rating a switch for higher amps can't be done and it's not safe to do. 

Just curious I wish I could find a source from one of the switch manufacturers.  I found this from Carlington:

DC Rule of Thumb

For those switches that list an AC voltage rating only, the "DC Rule of Thumb" can be applied for determining the switch's maximum DC current rating. This "rule" states the highest amperage on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts DC. For example, a switch which is rated at 10A 250VAC; 15A 125VAC; 3/4HP 125-250VAC, will be likely to perform satisfactorily at 15 amps up to 30 volts DC (VDC).

You notice they didn't say the 15A rating would be higher at that lower DC voltage and it says 15A *up to* 30V DC. So it seems a 15A switch is a 15A switch whether you're using 6v, 12v, or 30v DC.

[cvilledustin]

OK I got another question. Pin 1 uses just a NO switch right?

[blkbd]

OK I got another question. Pin 1 uses just a NO switch right?

Mamu has answered that question for you all ready by correcting you when you thought it used NC, Yes you need a NO switch. With a NC switch the unit will auto fire until the switch is pressed and resume to auto fire when released, With a NO switch the unit will only fire when the switch is pressed and stop when released.

[cvilledustin]

Sorry about that.  Little tired so the brain isn't working. Confused myself lol

[blkbd]

Sorry about that.  Little tired so the brain isn't working. Confused myself lol

No problem but people just need to slow down and read, When it comes to technical schematics I suck and need to sketch it out on paper in a simpler form.

[RCVapes]

I have a question guys I bought this switch for my first box mod Silver Metal Stainless Steel Blue LED Illuminated Latching Pushbutton Switch 16mm just wanted to see if anyone here has a good wiring diagram to use for this switch... Thanks in advance I'm pretty noob to all of this and I appreciate the help...

[Breaktru]

Do you have a source where there is a calculation that re-rates a switch

I'm still racking my brains finding the original link on re-rating. Still looking.

The switch should have a DC rating to re-rate at a lower voltage higher amperage. Using an AC voltage switch doesn't equate the same.
If you noticed, that 2A switch had a DC rating. On switches w/ AC and DC voltage, the AC amperage is always higher than the DC amperage rating. If the manufacture has not provided a DC voltage rating, you take the chance of burning up the switch.
The safest bet would be to buy a higher amp switch which is hard to find or use a Mosfet.

In the mean time I found Craigs post on the matter HERE and HERE

I also found a pdf: Switch Training Manual