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Hello all,Not new to the forum been following the great builds and helpful information that you all provide, without this forum I would've never been to build my DNA30/SX-350 box mods but this will be my first post. I'm just getting into building my first okr-T/10 box mod and had a question does it matter what wattage is used for each resistor on the okr-T/10 they have 1/4 Watt all the way up to 2 Watts example 220 Ohm 1/4 watt and 220 Ohm 2 Watt. Thanks..
Do you have access to the STL file from that 3d design? I just got a 3d printer and I would love to try and make one!
Check thingiverse.com I saw some modding stuff - search voltmeter or volt meter or maybe it's bezel it's been a while since I saw one there.
I noticed I was checking incorrectly. I'm not getting a reading across 2 and 3 but getting 8.2v across 2 and 4. Is this normal?
Well, the OKR-T/10 is oos everywhere. I was going to order a couple 60 Watt Raptors to play with, but I went with the 120 Watt Raptor. I only ordered one for now, but I probably should've gotten a few before they sell out again, so I may pick up a few more.I still want to build an OKR or three, so I'll keep a check on stock. Until then... I guess I'll be moving this to Mamu's Raptor thread. Good luck everyone with your OKR builds!!
Why not go with the PTR08100W.
Please help. Got a new chip, had everything set up and now only getting a reading of .0 to .3 from Vout. I have a 100uf 10v cap across 2 and 3, another from 4 to 3. 220 ohm resistor on 5 to 200 pot. Any suggestions?
I believe so, I'll double check in the morning. Stripe or writing is negative, correct? They have been cut short already.
Anyone have tips on wiring these things up professionally?
What could cause the chip to be stuck on 6v? Bad pot?
Heat shrink tubing and wire is going to be the easiest thing to do. If you want to make it look a lot cleaner, you can use a printed circuit board to eliminate most of the wires. It's not all that hard to make your own PCBs. I do it often, but I still send out to a shop for complicated ones.It can be a bit tricky making PCBs, but once you get things ironed out it's pretty quick and easy. Otherwise, Osh Park can fabricate your PCBs for an amazingly low cost, I mean it really is amazing how cheap they are from them. There are limitations with PCBs when dealing with high currents, but you can resolve that by using a bus bar soldered to a host trace on the PCB.
OK, since I don't understand the basics, can someone put me in the correct direction to learn more about the functions of an okr or like. I get the rest of the components and what they do, but the path, particularly through the OKR is still very hazy!! I don't want to build, or follow a diagram without understanding, so if anyone has some pointers on a good book or the like please let me know. CheersWes
In the 1900's there was a crash at roswell You tube has some really good videos explaining what buck and boosters are, how they work, and why they work like they do and how to build them from scratch.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCosnWgi3eorc1klEQ8pIgJQ
Hello guys. Got a pretty dumb question here but what kinda amp rating should the fire button be? Looking at the diagram I just see it can be non rated
Ah yes. I guess I didn't read that diagram too good. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to find that MOSFET and my order is complete
OK. Now the gears are turning. So I can either go pin 1 and get a nc switch of any rating or use the other pin and find a 3 amp switch. Kinda funny when all the nice low profile anti vandal switches are 2 amp not 3 like the schematic calls for
As I pointed out many times, look at the voltage rating VS the amp rating.2A @ 48VDC switch can handle 10 Amps @ 8.4V
switch rated at 2A/48VDC, should not be used for switching input power. Use only for switching power to remote control pin of OKR.
DC Rule of ThumbFor those switches that list an AC voltage rating only, the "DC Rule of Thumb" can be applied for determining the switch's maximum DC current rating. This "rule" states the highest amperage on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts DC. For example, a switch which is rated at 10A 250VAC; 15A 125VAC; 3/4HP 125-250VAC, will be likely to perform satisfactorily at 15 amps up to 30 volts DC (VDC).
OK I got another question. Pin 1 uses just a NO switch right?
Sorry about that. Little tired so the brain isn't working. Confused myself lol
Do you have a source where there is a calculation that re-rates a switch