OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit

[Stevo2569]

Hey guys, Started working on my next Mod. Wanting to incorporate an Ohm check as well as Vin and Vout for 3 dig display using a LM350 with 2 resistors and a Pot. Some guy on utube used it and it seems to work. Planning on using an ON-ON-ON-ON switch with one position actually OFF to output Voltmeter. Crappy Drawing Included. Questions: Has anyone used this to get Ohms?  Does anyone see any problems with this? Links Below. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks 
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LM350Tvirtualkey51210000virtualkey512-LM350T
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=L204121MS02Qvirtualkey61110000virtualkey611-L204121MS02Q

[Visus]

yeah theres a video of the guy who made the mod with this setup. 
may be the its same vid
It will fire the atomizer when you check ohms and a 3 wire powered vmeter  0-xxv is the only issue. 

[Stevo2569]

Sorry 0-vxx? Pot value? If so Is it going to be really hard to adjust to right value?
Thanks

[Visus]

Sorry 0-vxx? Pot value? If so Is it going to be really hard to adjust to right value?
Thanks

The v meter has to be powered and the ones that go from 0 to usually 99v some are 0-35v  they are many different some to 250v so I put xx.

[Stevo2569]

Gotcha. So I'll need a 3 wire display and a push button for Vcc. Thanks for the feedback

[Stevo2569]

Hey Guys, Finished another one. Ice Sabor. 60W-Vin/Vout display-Thumbwheel Pot. Thanks to Dropsomegears pics. No Ohm check yet but being the big kid I am I put a sound chip, accelerometer, and blue LEDs on separate power switch and it acts and sounds like a light sabor.  So Much Room For Activities!

[Breaktru]

Congrats Stevo 

[CraigHB]

What a fun mod, very cool.

[Stevo2569]

Thanks guys. It is fun. Rather large for my liking but definitely easier to assemble in the hammond box with room to spare. Have to especially keep this one away from the kids. They of course want to play with it too. Dont know how to upload sound file but it sounds just like you would imagine. Sound chip is 4V so its hooked up to just one Bat. Making sure to switch em around with the extra drain. Guess I could of V Reg'd it to both but it was easier to just tap in to 1.  I'm sure the cool factor will where off with time but for now its on quite a bit. 

[Visus]

Woot good one loves it  Stevo

Ya know like Doctors round here while the outside is purdy we like the guts moreso lol.

Can ya lift the skirt a bit 


 

[Stevo2569]

Lol. I cleaned up the wireing a bit since this photo. Not a whole lot showing. Right side is crammed pretty tight.

[Stevo2569]

Weird thing just happened. It stopped firing so I pulled the atty and it output fine. Checked with VM and output as expected. Atty back on and display blink once and humming from chip area. Batteries at 6.6V. Put fresh batteries in and it works fine. Is the 5.6 Zener diode cutting out early?

[miskol]

wewww nice sabor mod, should build another red one soon? hehe

[Stevo2569]

NO! I will not go to the dark side......well maybe. 

[Visus]

Yeah thats a great cutout
the sag from efest is much greater than sony's so your on the money.
Mamu would curse at your batts she uber hates efest they gave her a headache troubleshooting a mod that did the same as yours lol..


Thats a lot of wiring in there, looks hella confusing lol.

Wondering if ya have at least 20ga on it  looks of being pretty thin but could be thin sheaved.
It is also is a plus if you grab ground at the atomizer for the reg it increases its accuracy huge..
gives it a rudimentary -sense
no big deal but  produces a 0 drop reg loaded
when wired off the batts  ~.03sag loaded

[Stevo2569]

Ahh. I suspected those efest. Just got em for this mod. First time using. Got MNKE and VTC3's too but no big deal I guess. Makes sense. Yeah 20g where needed 24-26 elsewhere. The atty, bat and reg ground all connect right next to each other on PCB. Is'nt that pretty much the same?
Thanks

[Visus]

It would seem as so but it in a plastic enclosure it reacts with a margin of better accuracy.
I have not built in a metal mod to test it with case carrying also ground..

I do not know why it does but it truly does.   Maybe its the wider path to load IDK lol...

[Milzee]

Hey guys, thanks for all the info so far. You guys are pretty  incredible. I decided to make one according to mamu's schematic using the 10 amp regulator. I've got all the parts and it is all put together in the breadboard. It works perfectly without a load, I get a value of 3.3 - 6.1 volts on the meter, but if I try powering it with a load (2 ohm cartomizer) it doesn't fire. I'm just wondering if anyone has had problems similar to this, I suppose it could be from the breadboard itself, but I'd rather make sure it would work before I put it all together in the enclosure.

As far as parts I'm using pretty much everything that Visus listed earlier in the thread, reply #319, except for different fuses, RGEF500 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RGEF500/RGEF500-ND/1045840) and a ceramic capacitor instead of tantalum.

[gno3545]

hey guys I've been sifting through all this for months now and I'm ready to build my first ok r T 10 I've got all the parts but one and that's the MOSFET P fet I need for this build can anybody give me a digi key link for the exact P fet?

[Milzee]

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=SUP75P03-07-E3-ND&WT.z_header=search_go I believe that is one of the ones that they suggest using for the build. It has leads so it should be much easier to solder than the SMD one.

[gno3545]

thanks I'm now complete

[Milzee]

Update: I decided to put it all together and guess what?!?!? IT WORKS!!! I guess it was the breadboard after all. Well I'm glad I figured that out.

[Rigure]

Hmm, I got a bit bored.
After building 10 or so okr builds, I decided to make something a little...bigger. How abut a four port vape station? Using 4 of the okl 60 watt chips with LED voltmeter and Hammond 1590A boxes as the handset. Thay will be on ten foot cords and controllable from the station. Heres a question tho, since I want a big moohoofus battery to run all four ports, is that going to work having all four hooked to the same battery? EXAMPLE - 6 26650's in parrelle,  wired for series with another 6 26650's for 8.4 volts.
OR have 3 packs of 4 26650's ,  wired into series for 12.6 volts.

Any thoghts would be appreciated.

[Visus]

If all are maxxed thats 240 watts and 2s6p 26650's can easily handle that and much over.
They run a lil more efficient at 8.4v so
It will run forever on a charge..
You can charge that mofo huge amps too  woot

Nice build...

Wonder if ya know abou this charger was gonna make a post and lazied out.
Pretty sweet for our 2s builds lil weaksauce for your monster build tho
http://www.varitube.com/YiHi-9V-Balancing-Charger-Board_p_179.html

[Rigure]

Thanks for that link visus, but I went and bought a 110 AC to 1 Amp balance charger.  I wanted to be able to just plug that thing in to the wall. The only question I have for charging, is that I don't know if I can charge and vape at the same time. Do I need to put in a cutoff switch for it when I charge, isolating it from the converters?

I figured that the batteries would hold up for all four going at once, but I thought that the c9nverters were most effective at around 12v input?

[Visus]

Reading the data its most efficient at around 7v at 12v they lose a little bit of efficiency as the regulator is taking a larger margin of loss 3-5v.  Its the batteries in worry t when using above 60 watts, then it will need 3s to handle the watts...  At 10 amps yeah the 12v you may wanna use but will you be vaping @60watts all the time or ~30-40watts.

Page 5
http://power.murata.com/data/power/okr-t10-w12.pdf

Its not to shabby either way but @3.3v 12v @~91%   @8.4v above 95% then @ 3.3v  they level out at 10amps

So yeah they will run better with 12v if are you  @ 60watts a lot or 2s @ 30w or so.  Thats huge runtime in 6p you will lose quite a bit going 3s1p but quicker charging.  IDK great either way but I like to get all the eff/runtime I can lol..

You could have a bought a 5amp or higher charger most 26650's can charge safely at huge rates..  @1amp thats gonna take forever lol..

[tater.1980]

Hi very new to this forum and have been reading a lot in the last 2 weeks quick question if using pin 1 for low voltage cutoff does the wattage rating on the zener diode matter?
 

[Breaktru]

Welcome tater.
No doesn't matter. A low wattage zener will do.

[Milzee]

Wow, Rigure, that looks pretty impressive. Ever since I got into building my own (crappy) mods years ago I've been dying to make an electronic hookah type setup, and your build is pretty much how I would want to make mine. Any chance I can get you to post a parts list? Also those connectors for the hand held boxes, are those just quarter inch audio jacks?

[tater.1980]

Welcome tater.
No doesn't matter. A low wattage zener will do.

Thank you very very much

[Rigure]

Wow, Rigure, that looks pretty impressive. Ever since I got into building my own (crappy) mods years ago I've been dying to make an electronic hookah type setup, and your build is pretty much how I would want to make mine. Any chance I can get you to post a parts list? Also those connectors for the hand held boxes, are those just quarter inch audio jacks?

so i finished it up. heres a pic of it installed in the local vape shop.

Milzee, the parts are your run of the mill okr-t10 parts list minus the reverse polarity. The box itself is a Hammond box, and just as a caution, it does not come with a bottom...i used 16g(bigger than needed i know) four conductor cable for the cords and fender gutair 1/4" plug in ports for the jacks.

I think iv come a ways from my first little okr box. it just takes time and effort to imagine something different.

[Breaktru]

Great project. It came out rather well 

[Madyicstik]

i have something similar. i think ill update my connectors to a guitar like yours. i currenty have deans  on mine. care to share where you got your parts from? im wondering if regular rca connectors would handle the power too?

[Rigure]

i have something similar. i think ill update my connectors to a guitar like yours. i currenty have deans  on mine. care to share where you got your parts from? im wondering if regular rca connectors would handle the power too?

I suppose thay would if you get big enough cables. But , I think that four rca Jacks on the outside ...aesthetically wouldn't look good. The ports are boat style Mighty Mite 1/4 plugin jacks. I didn't use the conception jacks...I didn't know if thay would drop too much. Plus I needed to find them in stereo for the four wires. Got pics of yours? I'd love to see it.

[Visus]

RCA connectors,  the good ones carry over 100 amps of current in studios if thats what your asking,  they
are not inexpensive though.  Even the cheap solderable brands will carry the current and voltage with slight loss thats minimal on long runs but for our use under ten feet or so they will be sufficient just use good/decent cable..  The 1/4" jacks high end are  inexpensive and those boat style Rig is using are purdy looking but even the cheap ones out rank in connection expensive rca's.. 
I have over 20k+ of audio cables in storage from old studio biznuss that went north south and finally kaboom lol well if my ex didn't throw out my boxes, that I am sure she did..  Its not only the equipment that hurts ya pockets in owning a studio its the freakin wiring,  make or break ya, literally lol...

[Madyicstik]

Only issue that im having is how to put the switch in the box as currently my switches are in the base and only connectors are in the boxes.

[Madyicstik]

I suppose thay would if you get big enough cables. But , I think that four rca Jacks on the outside ...aesthetically wouldn't look good. The ports are boat style Mighty Mite 1/4 plugin jacks. I didn't use the conception jacks...I didn't know if thay would drop too much. Plus I needed to find them in stereo for the four wires. Got pics of yours? I'd love to see it.

which specific diagram did you use out of the 3? i need to know how you kept the connector and the switch on the 1590A box and 2 wire conect both switch and connector to the main base station?

[ericmonster]

Hi, I'm new to this site. Thanks for having me. I have a problem. I have tried to build the t10 about 6 times. Each time, it works for a few hours (sometimes up to 24) then begins to auto fire. I've tried 1k and 4.7k res between pin 1 and 3. same result. Built one with no pin 1 using a PV2 switch and it seems to be holding up. Has anyone else run into this problen with the remote switch? And do you think the PV2 is sufficient to run this mod without pin 1? Thanks for the input

[jblack741]

oops...  corrected.  I revised that guide the other day based on requests to clarify what ground is and where it goes.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention, miskol!

Hi mamu, I'm sorry if this is a redundant question and I'm reading through the tread but have a couple of questions related to your diagram that I think I need to get answers to:

I built a dual 26650 T/10 and its been working flawlessly for a couple of weeks now then yesterday it started auto firing. I removed the atty and turned the unit off via the switch, attached a different atty and switched it back on and all was ok for about 15min then it started auto firing again. This time I tried to turn off the unit with the switch and it continued to fire but my meter turned off. I was thinking I had a faulty switch until I noticed the meter was working. I also realized that the slide switch I'm using is not wired as a master on/off but only connects the POS lead of meter with the fire button and the POS terminal end of the battery sled which just gives me the total power. (I'll have to backtrack on that to see where I screwed up).

I'm currently removing the HS tubing so I can check the connections to the T/10 and take pics of the solder points. Is the 22uf cap connecting pins 2-3 required? And for my knowledge base why and what are the benefits? I just received some from Mouser and will install if needed.

Thank you.

[mamu]

Input cap is not required for the OKR, is optional.   With the OKR it's the modder's option to add or not add.  I add an external input cap with my OKR mods, personal preference as I feel it helps to buffer inrush current and that it improves the reliability and longevity of the converter by increasing the lifetime of the internal onboard caps. 

Autofiring is usually the result of a fire switch failure, or a pull-down resistor failure/loose connection, or using too high of a resistance value.  Autofiring can also result from failure of pin 1 if applying too much heat to the pin when soldering or if holding the soldering iron on the pin too long.

[jblack741]

Input cap is not required for the OKR, is optional.   With the OKR it's the modder's option to add or not add.  I add an external input cap with my OKR mods, personal preference as I feel it helps to buffer inrush current and that it improves the reliability and longevity of the converter by increasing the lifetime of the internal onboard caps.

Thank you, I think I'll add it just for GP! 
 

Autofiring is usually the result of a fire switch failure, or a pull-down resistor failure/loose connection, or using too high of a resistance value.  Autofiring can also result from failure of pin 1 if applying too much heat to the pin when soldering or if holding the soldering iron on the pin too long.

I replaced the switch with a new out of the package same model and the mod did the same thing. Works fine for 10-15min then starts autofiring. I also changed the atty with one I was using on my dna mod and continued to get the same results. I have a feeling that the res on pin 1 has failed/failing but I'll find out in the morning late! 

Thanks for your input.

[jblack741]

Autofiring is usually the result of a fire switch failure, or a pull-down resistor failure/loose connection, or using too high of a resistance value.  Autofiring can also result from failure of pin 1 if applying too much heat to the pin when soldering or if holding the soldering iron on the pin too long.

The 220ohm resister appears to have been the culprit. I replaced it and so far everything appears to be working. I also replaced a 1k with a 4.7k resister not shown in pics. I saw the difference between another schematic I used and yours. I'll know in a day or two. Anyway here is my build;
















Thanks again Mamu...

[jblack741]

Well its a no go... Think I have a bad T/10. After replacing all resister and ZD I continue to have intermittent autofirings. I know the POT works correctly because I can turn the volts up/down. In the linked vid I connected a voltmeter to the 510 and waited. The mist you see is from me vaping:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2tk_YT_bONyUmVFcC1lWVk2X2s/view?usp=sharing

So I have an extra project this weekend... glad I had an extra T/10.

Thanks so much for your feedback.

[Breaktru]

Congrats, jblack on your build.

Check for a cold solder connection for the 4.7k resistor on pin 1 and the other end of the 4.7k to ground (-). A cold solder would increase the resistance to Pin 1.
If all is well with your soldering then try a lower value resistor on pin 1. Example: instead of 4.7k first try 4K then 3.5K then 3k, etc...

[jblack741]

Congrats, jblack on your build.

Check for a cold solder connection for the 4.7k resistor on pin 1 and the other end of the 4.7k to ground (-). A cold solder would increase the resistance to Pin 1.
If all is well with your soldering then try a lower value resistor on pin 1. Example: instead of 4.7k first try 4K then 3.5K then 3k, etc...

Thanks Breaktru, I had a 1k resister on there to begin with and everything was working great for more than a month. Then last week it started acting like it was on drugs. Anyway I'm going to undue the chip and replace the resisters and diode and we'll see what happens. Worst case is I replace the T10 itself.

Thanks for your time and help.

[unclever]

I would like to thank everyone in this thread for the great help they have given everyone and for just sharing their knowledge. I'm a metal fabricator and do custom paint so I built my own box from sheet aluminum and wrapped the edge in brass. I followed mamu's schematic  and my okr box works great. Here are some photos.




One question now that the electronics bug has bit me I was wondering if someone has a schematic for an ohm meter. Would just like to build one. Thanks again.

[jblack741]

Thank you to both mamu and breaktru for you help/suggestions. In the end it was just more expedient for me to put in a new chip with all new components and so far so good.

Just for the torture and practice I added a 22uf cap based on mamu's diagram and I have to say that after I was done, I needed a drink!  Sorry no pics of this but in short I made a package using the cut leads from a ZD, soldered them to the ends and shrink wrapped it which made it much easier to work with on the T/10. A big  to you guys again.

Thanks. 

[Visus]

Thats a sweet build unc..

grats jb,
 gotta post pics may as well notta said anything noone believes until you post pics
 this is the internets and build porn pic or it aint so lol...


Unc Mamu has a post on page 1 modding with a screen with erryting on it, 
10a limit; but she said someone else is using it fine above 10A but she doesn't try it. 
Another has killed this meter by using it over 10A,  he said it was like 30A..
IDK if there's any diagrams that will subohm in the nets other than mcu mods
 

[jblack741]

Thats a sweet build unc..

grats jb,
 gotta post pics may as well notta said anything noone believes until you post pics
 this is the internets and build porn pic or it aint so lol...

Sorry Visus, I got so involved with the cap that I just didn't think about it until after I had packaged everything up and started drinking!  .. so you'll just have to take my word for it! LOL! That HS is not coming off unless something else comes up!

Thanks.

[jblack741]

Congrats, jblack on your build.

Check for a cold solder connection for the 4.7k resistor on pin 1 and the other end of the 4.7k to ground (-). A cold solder would increase the resistance to Pin 1.
If all is well with your soldering then try a lower value resistor on pin 1. Example: instead of 4.7k first try 4K then 3.5K then 3k, etc...

Ok, I thought I was loosing my mind. After changing all components I still ran into the same issue. Refusing to believe that all components were bad and checking and double checking my wiring, I got out the magnifier and guess what? I found a minute solder trace right at the board edge between pins 1 and 2 from where I soldered on the pull down res. Once I cleaned that up all is good in my world again! 

Thank you for your help.