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Breaktru Forum  |  eCigarette Forum  |  Modding  |  Topic: DNA 30 passthru...
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Offline mamu

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DNA 30 passthru...
« on: April 05, 2014, 01:26:27 PM »
I found a few AC to DC power supplies that are suitable for use with a DNA passthru mod I'm working on.

RS-75-3.3 is 0-15A, 3.3v (adjustable from 3.0v - 3.6v mine adjusted up to 3.7v).



Input voltage drop 0.23v running the DNA at 30W:


HSP-150-3.8 is 0-30A, 3.8v (adjustable from 3.4v - 4.2v mine adjusted up to 4.34 but turned it down to 4.2v).



Input voltage drop 0.13v running the DNA at 30W:


These power supplies will need to be enclosed in a protective case, so the search is on for one. 

But now I have the decision what case I want to use for this project.  No need to have space for batts woot!    :laughing:


Offline JonGio

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2014, 11:04:12 PM »
Very interesting I must say.  I like it .  I definitely like it.  While we are on the DNA 30 subject I have a question.  When I build a mod with an IMR battery and a USB charging port, If I hook up the charger to the DNA chip I always have problems.  the red and green light stay on and it wont charge.  If I just Wire the charger to the battery and not the chip, (for charging ) I have no problems.  Any Idea why this is happening.  And one more question.  Would it be OK to use a 1 amp USB charging port instead of the 500 ma charging board that is made by evolve?  wired directly to the battery.  Not to the Chip.

Offline mamu

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2014, 04:39:26 AM »
I've had a few DNA boards where there was a problem with the traces on the board for the usb so needed to by-pass that.

1A charging port is fine.

Offline mamu

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2014, 09:11:04 AM »
ok... finally got my ducks in a row and got er done.   :yes"

I spent a huge amount of time searching for high amp DC connectors and finally found Switchcraft's 11A jacks and plugs.  They aint cheap either.  :laughing: http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=1074

I had to nix the RS-75-3.3 MeanWell power supply - wasn't enough of a voltage cushion to account for the voltage drop under load with using a 3' DC power cord and DC connectors.

I found a looper case that fit the HSP-150-3.8 MeanWell power supply perfect.  Total cost of assembly for this power supply (power supply, AC power cord, 3' 16AWG DC power cord, Switchcraft 11A DC connector, 10A on/off switch, looper case) ~95.00.



So, while I was waiting for parts to come in, I decided to play with a 5V 10A power brick.


The power brick I got metered at 5.6V.  I pried it open and added 2x 16A diodes (FES16DT-E3/45) in series to drop the source voltage by at least 1V (metered at 4.5V - 4.6V).  I mounted the diodes to the power brick's heat shield to use as a heat sink - works great and the diodes stay cool to the touch under load.


I was getting a voltage drop under load at the watts I vape (15W) that brought the source voltage down to under 4.5V, so I removed 1 diode.  If you vape lower watts, you'll need the 2 diodes to bring that source voltage down to less than 4.5V under load.

I replaced the power brick's DC connector with a Switchcraft connector.  Total cost of assembly for the power brick (power brick, 2x diodes, Switchcraft 11A DC connector) ~45.

HSP-150-3.8 with 3' 16AWG DC cord and set of Switchcraft's 11A DC connectors...
Source voltage...


Voltage drop @ 15W...


Voltage drop @ 30W...


5V 10A power brick with 3' 16AWG DC cord and set of Switchcraft's 11A DC connectors...
Source voltage with 1 diode...


Voltage drop @ 15W...


Voltage drop @ 30W...


Now that the power supply was settled, I went on a search for a case and chose Hammond's 1455D601BU case (60mm x 45mm x 25mm).

All done...







Offline banshee

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2014, 09:39:20 AM »
Nice work mamu. Looking good.
So this is a passthru only? A bit expensive for the supply and assoc parts, no?

Offline mamu

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2014, 10:13:48 AM »
Well, the MeanWell and its needed supplies was def on the expensive side, but the power brick and its needed supplies is an equivalent cost of 3-4 quality 18650 batts - with the power brick more than likely outliving the 18650 batt longevity.

I bought the 5V 10A power brick here in the US for $30 something.  I can pick one up for around $15 at aliexpress, so that lowers the cost by half.

And just think - with this passthru mod, I never have to buy new batts for it, buy a batt charger, change out batts, or re-charge batts.  :thumbsup:

Online theDom

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2014, 10:42:30 AM »
Nice going girl  :beer-toast:

Offline Jasen

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2014, 10:44:12 AM »
Pretty slick.

The power brick looks to be similar to the one powering my laptop, which I have 3-4 old one's kicking round :Thinking:

Offline mamu

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2014, 05:18:10 PM »
Thanks guys!

ecat from ECF shared a quick and easy way to drop the source voltage from a power supply.  Many many thanks to ecat!!

Quote from: ecat;12988811
My pleasure Mamu.

There's a lot of words in this post as I've tried to dot the i's and cross the t's but really there is not much to it. Feel free to ask if anything is not clear.

This is the schematic of a typical switch mode power supply (smps). Yours may not be exactly like this and certainly the names and values of the components will be different but the basic principle is most likely the same.




Firstly, beware of everything to the left of T1, the voltages there are dangerous. Even when power is removed that pesky capacitor C103 may be holding a nasty surprise.

On to the good bit:

The output of this supply is 5V, we can ignore the upper 12V part because it doesn't exist on your supply, the low voltage cable would connect to 5V and ground (0V).

As you look down the right hand side of the schematic you can see +5V line connects to resistor R204 and then through R205 to ground, we'll call these resistors Rt for R204 the top one and Rb for R205 the bottom one. Two resistors in series like this are known as a 'voltage divider', the voltage that appears where Rt and Rb connect to each other, marked with 'fb' above, is 5V divided by the ratio of the two.

The voltage at Vfb = (Vout / (Rt + Rb)) * Rb = (5V / (4k + 4k)) * 4k = 2.5V

What we need to do is change either or both Rt and Rb such that whatever voltage we want out appears as 2.5V were the two resistors join.

For your smps you need to locate this voltage divider, two resister near the output cable that join to each other and connect to the output +ve and 0v. There is not usually very much going on at the output of a simple smps so I think your chances are good.

Measure the output voltage.
Measure the voltage where the two resistors join.
Unsolder one end of each of the two resistors you have identified, we need to unsolder at least one end so we can...
Measure the resistance of the two resistors.

Remembering the voltage divider equation above, do the maths and double check that the calculated Vfb voltage is the same as the measured Vfb voltage (it will probably be around 1V to 2.5V). If you are within about 0.2V you probably have the correct resistors.

if Vfb = (( Vout / (Rt + Rb)) * Rb an you now know the value of Vfb you can calculate a new value of, say, Rt to give you the output voltage you require.

Rt = ((Vout - Vfb) * Rb) / Vfb

In this example, we want 4V out and changing 5V to 4V is not a big enough change to cause concern. Both Rt and Rb measure as 4k ohms and our measured and double checked Vfb = 2.5V

Rt = ((4V - 2.5V) * 4k) / 2.5V
Rt = 2.4k ohms

2.4k is quite a large change from the existing 4k but this shouldn't cause any problems. You would pick a standard resistor with a value as close to the calculated value as possible. Higher values of Rt increase the output voltage, lower values of Rt decrease the output voltage.

Now, if you are very unlucky and your smps does not use a voltage divider, looking something like this perhaps...



then, unless you can hand draw a schematic for me, it's back to the diodes I'm afraid :(

Following ecat's guide, I calculated I needed a 4K resistor for R18 in my power supply.  I only had a 3.9K on hand so used that.  I was shooting for 4.5V and got 4.4V.   woohoo I'll take it!!  :laughing:

original source voltage 5.6V...


R18 (6.2K) and R19 (5K)... voltage where the resistors join = 2.5V


replaced R18 with a 3.9K resistor... voltage where the resistors join = 2.49V


source voltage 4.4V...


Thanks again for sharing ecat!! 

ETA: ecat's warning about tinkering with power supplies... please heed this warning if attempting this modification to a power supply...

Quote from: ecat;12999693
Switch mode power supplies are very dangerous things to play with.
High voltage in parts, the capacitors hold this voltage even when disconnected from the mains, the heatsinks are sometimes live etc. If anyone else tries this then please be aware of the risks, accept the dangers and do not blame anyone else if something, or someone, goes up in smoke.

Offline Visus

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2014, 05:29:56 PM »
Mamu you rock wow awesome revision to tutorial.
You get if in school an A+ for following the professors lesson, the + for added pictures..  :thumbsup:

Yeah 600+ volt across that cap where the dragon lives on skin would not be pleasant at all..

Offline Visus

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2014, 05:50:25 PM »
How does the DNA perform at its max voltage input?  I bet its on steroids now  :laughing2:...

In vaders voice:
Come to the dark side use only the 4050c smooooooooth... ;hubba;  :laughing2:

Offline mamu

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #11 on: April 29, 2014, 06:07:01 PM »
The DNA purrs like a kitten, Visus. 

I love it - been vaping exclusively with my DNA PT mod since getting it done.

My son wanted to try it, so I re-connected the 2nd diode in the 1st 5V 10A power brick I did to drop the source to 4.5V max cause he vapes at 10W so he doesn't get much of a voltage drop under load.  I had it set at 5V with 1x 16A diode and with little voltage drop under load that would be too much input voltage for the DNA.

I'm going to keep this power brick this way with the 2x 16A diodes in series for a max volts of 4.5.  It won't power the DNA at 30W though as there's too much of a voltage drop under load, but I vape max 15W so is aok for me and me kids.

My other power bricks, I'm going to use ecat's guide with changing out an onboard resister to set the max volts at 4.4 -4.5. 

So so so easy vs the diodes!!   :yes"


Offline deftones

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #12 on: April 29, 2014, 09:19:37 PM »
never have to buy new batts for it, buy a batt charger, change out batts, or re-charge batts.

Sounds great! Very impressive again mamu!  ;bow;

Offline djboa

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2014, 04:28:17 AM »
Grat work, nice to get some insights into psu modding.

But what would the downside to getting a supposibly cheaper 12V power supply and use an okr-t10 to drop the supply power down to an even more stable 4.5V? - this would also make it possible to run straight off a cars cigarette lighter thing.

Also - This way you wouldn't need as expensive a connector, since you could run 12V to the passthrough with lower max A.

Offline CraigHB

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2014, 02:38:07 PM »
I do that with wall warts a lot to trim the output.  Some of the ones I get are higher or lower than I'd like.  The trick is finding the correct resistors on the PCB.  Pretty much all power supplies control output voltage with a couple resistors this way.

There are limitations to trimming voltage in this manner.  There are hard limits in an any adapter design for minimal or maximal output voltage.  I probably would not try to trim more than a Volt or two.  If you want a hugely different output voltage, you should get an adapter closer to the desired output to begin with.

If you were to regulate a 12V adapter, you're basically running two regulators in series, three if you count the DNA30.  You end up with the product in efficiency of both regulators, so two regulators at 90% would have 80% efficiency.  Three would be 70%.  Normally it's something to avoid especially with battery powered stuff, but since you're running off utility mains power or a car system, it's probably not an issue.  Still, it's just better to use one regulator to provide the required output than two.  It could be done, but it would still be better to use a single adapter with the correct output.

As far as stability, you also increase noise for every regulator inline.  It's not a product, but there is a percentage of input noise that ends up on the ouptut.  So, it would actually be a less stable scenario to put additional regulators in series.


« Last Edit: May 01, 2014, 02:55:42 PM by CraigHB »

Offline dbeast64

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #15 on: December 31, 2014, 03:22:16 AM »
I love it and wish I had the skills  ;bow;

Offline miskol

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Re: DNA 30 passthru...
« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2015, 10:04:27 AM »
wowww mamu, this is very interesting!

not sure if i will be brave enough to try this.

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