Author Topic: Four prong SPST? How to wire? (Read 8561 times)

windxrunner · « **on:** November 26, 2014, 07:35:57 PM »

I have some SPST switches I got as samples. I would like to use them on a project, but I've only ever wired up switches with two prongs before. Idk if these have four because they have LED lights in them, but what I DO know is that they do, and idk why or how to go about wiring them up. I'm used to switches with two prongs, and on my unregulated boxes I just bring a live wire to one then have another live wire coming off the opposite end. My next project will be a regulated mod, something I've never personally done but have been looking into lately. Idk if that makes a difference in how it will need to be wired, but I thought I'd mention they'll be used in a regulated mod, an OKR T/10 to be precise, and possibly a DNA40 for the second one. I tried to find the necessary info with Google, but I did not have any luck. Thought I'd run it by y'all before I just winged it.

EDIT: Including a picture might help, right? Lol, here's a front and back shot of the two switches I have:

ilithanos · « **Reply #1 on:** November 27, 2014, 10:22:34 AM »

it's hard for me to tell anything from that picture, do you have a port number or anything else to identify the switch? besides that another option could be to use a multimeter to check for the legs it is switching between as to when the circuit is closed or open.

windxrunner · « **Reply #2 on:** November 27, 2014, 03:37:28 PM »

I got them as a sample from E-Switch, they sent me PV6F24011G-3M1 and PV6F240SS-221. Thanks for your reply.

Also, I have a multimeter and I've heard this trick referenced , but I must confess I am not sure how to go about checking that. Sorry if I'm wrong, but do I want one to be positive and one to be negative? I thought both would be attached to positive wires.

ilithanos · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2014, 04:21:52 AM »

regarding the PV6F24011G-3M1.

Two of the terminals are the switching terminals 1+2 (no polarity considerations) the other two are for the LED. datasheet: http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/622911/E-SWITCH/52-PV6F24011G3M1/393/1/52-PV6F24011G3M1.html

exactly what terminals to use are a different beast, i would bring out the multimeter and test for either continuity or the resistance between the terminals. if in the off position the resistance should be close to indefinite and if in the on position it should be pretty low. it looks like the terminals are paired opposite to eachother.

windxrunner · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2014, 12:39:30 PM »

So how do I wire the other two so the LED comes on?

ilithanos · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2014, 01:15:06 PM »

one of them positive the other negative. not 100% sure i'm reading the schematic correctly regarding the LED but to me it looks like it could be powered even when reversed, but we are going to need someone with more knowledge than me to be 100% sure unless you want to risk frying the led.

windxrunner · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2014, 01:23:42 PM »

Hm ok, thanks for your help. It's not something I'm planning on wiring this weekend or anything, so I'm content to wait until I know for sure.

ilithanos · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2014, 04:40:06 PM »

if you look at the datasheet i linked you would see that wired one way ( regarding the LED) it will have a yellow color led if wired in reverse, and an orange if wired normally. basicaly the rest of what you need is inside the datasheet i linked earlier

i just looked it over again and it even shows the circuit for the led internals of the switch. the LED section seems to be rated for 20mA and 1.8 V.