Author Topic: Anyone pushed a raptor over 6V? (Read 22117 times)

doobedoobedo · « **on:** January 03, 2015, 10:00:00 AM »

Just wondering whether anyone had regularly pushed the raptor over it's stated maximum of 6V. And if they have, how did it perform?

wa9w00d · « **Reply #1 on:** January 03, 2015, 11:02:58 AM »

Posting mainly to subscribe. I've been curious about this myself. I know that you wouldn't want to push the voltage parameter if you were also pushing the current parameter, and you wouldn't want to put such a device in the hands of someone who didn't understand that.

Anyway, Hi Doobe.

Wayne

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #2 on:** January 03, 2015, 11:44:31 AM »

Hey Wayne

I'm not planning on pushing past 120W. But would like to increase the coil resistance range that can get there if it's practical. And if someone else has done some testing it'll at least tell me what I can expect.

There's a little something I'm working on at the moment

. Currently waiting on a new screen that implements SPI properly as this one won't allow me to talk to the digi pot

(no slave select)

nwooley83 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 03, 2015, 01:14:26 PM »

I like the look of that setup. BTW Which chip are you using there?

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #4 on:** January 03, 2015, 01:17:25 PM »

That's a funduino pro mini. A very cheap arduino pro-mini clone.

Breaktru · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2015, 04:41:28 PM »

Nice going doobe. Great job man

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #6 on:** January 03, 2015, 05:12:57 PM »

Cheers Breaktru. Code is still a little rough at the edges. I've not done any proper real-time programming before. I started with an I2C screen which was so slow in updating that it messed with button presses, so I got this one, but if I try and set the digi-pot the whole thing freezes

. I can set the digi-pot so long as the screen hasn't been activated. So on to screen number 3. Most of the code is done apart from a bit of honing here and there.

I'm using two 5K pots in parallel. I wrote a little program to give me settings in .01V increments so I can just lookup the values I need in a 2D array given the voltage I want. I'll be constantly monitoring the output voltage/current/resistance to fine tune whilst it fires.

Visus · « **Reply #7 on:** January 04, 2015, 03:15:52 AM »

Quote from: wa9w00d on January 03, 2015, 11:02:58 AM

Posting mainly to subscribe. I've been curious about this myself. I know that you wouldn't want to push the voltage parameter if you were also pushing the current parameter, and you wouldn't want to put such a device in the hands of someone who didn't understand that.

Anyway, Hi Doobe.

Wayne

You would absolutely hate what I do to the 08100 then
11v had it up to 120 watts way over sheet specs of 50w 10A spec 16A limit and 5.5v..
Its badarse on a 12v batt
Its fused so if any bad mojo lets hope that fuse kicks in properly if silly again and it did/does..
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thats awesome Doobe
That screen layout is amazing purdy logistics
Those arduino's are the sauce for hobby shiz

I am subscribed to https://www.youtube.com/user/julius256
He has done some really cool libraries for the arduino it saves quite a bit memory and speeds up processing.
His fonts are not as sharp but the update speed is awesome. I must get into the que of arduino a

few years from now
I've always wanted to do a haunted house and xmas lights with fm broadacsting at me house love that shiz and I aint willin to pay $$$$ rtr out the box but if I hit the lottery then this is moot

...

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #8 on:** January 04, 2015, 04:24:23 AM »

Cheers Visus

. If a thing's worth doing it's worth overdoing! It bodes less badly for the raptor, pushing it a bit over spec, if you can push something else that far over

This is my first foray with the arduino and I must say I'm really quite impressed with it. I'm using U8glib for screen handling and I looked at a menu library, but decided to roll my own as I thought using a library for that was a bit overkill. I've seen a few of that guys vids on youtube before, but I daren't look at his channel as I'd never get anything done

It's not quite finished as I realised I missed a bit which is required for the temp control, so I may have to forego the logo on the settings screen to fit an extra row in, but such is life.

If you like to play and can code even a little (or want to learn) I'd say get an arduino, they're ridiculously cheap and the possibilities with them seem endless.

wa9w00d · « **Reply #9 on:** January 04, 2015, 04:33:35 AM »

Visus, you are a hoot!

‘course, what I was sayin’ (meant, anyway), is more along the lines “don’t build one and then give it to Grandma”.

I did bread board a 10A Raptor last night, and with ~12 volt input and a very light load (500 ohm), it seemed quite happy to deliver 8 volts output. I’m sure it would have went further, but I ain’t gonna let the magic smoke out of the chip yet. That’s not really testing, but my power supply is small. I’m thinking pass through with a cigarette lighter plug on it.

And doobe, that is a very cool setup. Where do you find time? I’m old, so the clock spins instead of ticking any more.

Remember, play safe – but if you don’t, don’t go runnin’ to Momma.

Wayne

ETA: same setup, input 7 volts, output topped out at 6.7 volts.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #10 on:** January 04, 2015, 03:28:28 PM »

I have a little spare time, and it helps that I'm a coder by trade albeit in a different language.

The raptor is buck only so I'm not surprised that it wouldn't quite reach the input voltage. My idea was to limit the output to 6V if it was connected to a 2S LiPo pack but go higher if connected to a 3S pack. So your experiment with the 10A raptor is pretty valid for what I want to do

.

iusedtoanalog · « **Reply #11 on:** January 05, 2015, 01:25:04 PM »

Hi Doobie, I have a Raptor 2celll device in my pocket right this moment that can do 6.51v. As long as you feed it the input amperage you should have very little issues getting the output. I have not tried to get more than that out of these or the OKR versions but I would think that on a 3cell you could ask for more than that if you really wanted to. I normally build around 1ohm so it allows me plenty of room for adjustment. Good luck with your project, sounds like a fun one.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #12 on:** January 05, 2015, 02:12:58 PM »

Nice one. Feeling even more confident now

.

It's really annoying waiting for this new screen, but I've ironed out some more UI bugs, redone the settings menu to add the extra option, added time out after no buttons pressed to sleep, implemented the 5 click on/off better and managed to knock a whopping 3k off the executable size with some more optimisations

. Under 20K now, so over 10k left to play with and I'm feeling much more comfortable about the size.

wa9w00d · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:36:31 PM »

Hey doobe,

Totally off topic, and very old joke.

Q: How many programmers does it take to change a light bulb?

A: Can't be done, it's a hardware problem.

Thank you, thank you, remember to tip your waitresses, I'll be here all night...........

Wayne

norcalreballer · « **Reply #14 on:** January 26, 2015, 11:49:12 PM »

I've been rocking an OKL2 T20 for months and months with 3s input and unloaded output voltage of 4.2-7.5v. I've gone days on end pulling 30a from it and it still works. It's kind of a waste of time IMHO if you're using 2s input, as you might as well just go unregulated if you want the higher voltage. To keep output at 7v for the life of the batteries(and sweet battery life)3s input is where it's at IMHO.

That arduino setup looks cool. I've been messing around for awhile with MCU's. Hoping to make some more progress soon.

Visus · « **Reply #15 on:** January 27, 2015, 02:09:45 AM »

But it only goes to 20watts .4A how are you pulling 30A. LOL
Also omg 7 volts

The operating finds of some chips is unbelievable. They do a little lot more than data sheets infer.

GUess because we only pulse them there is no issue.

I 've been making a mcu mod since forever, definitely going arduino for mine.
Esp if guy who made the temperature rapture arduino with choice of wqatts or volts yeah definitely sweet.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #16 on:** January 27, 2015, 04:37:55 AM »

Just a little update. I have boards on the way from OSH Park

CraigHB · « **Reply #17 on:** January 27, 2015, 02:25:31 PM »

Quote from: Visus on January 27, 2015, 02:09:45 AM

GUess because we only pulse them there is no issue.

It does make a big difference, the amperage ratings are continuous. Typically with an e-cig there's lots of cooling time. Though voltage is not included there. Most components will fry for sure when taken over maximum voltage ratings. Since the regulator modules are not a single component, rather a collection of components, the voltage they can tolerate is dependant on which chip fries first. Usually there's some margin there, but not a huge amount.

Getting PCBs in the mail is the one of the few things in my life I still get excited about, my own little xmas. Sometimes it takes a lot of work to get them designed and sent out so it's a payoff.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #18 on:** January 27, 2015, 02:40:43 PM »

Yeah dead excited

I know I've not got the most efficient use of board space, but it'll do for now just to make sure everything works. The max voltage is set in the firmware, so I'll start off with a nice safe 6V before I start to push a little at a time.

CraigHB · « **Reply #19 on:** January 27, 2015, 03:08:43 PM »

I know how that goes, I've sometimes done three revisions on a PCB before getting it where I want. Thank the stars for Osh Park, they make it affordable to do design iterations on PCBs. Before co-ops like Osh Park, I had to pay through the nose for PCBs so hitting the send key always resulted in an amount of flinching.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #20 on:** January 27, 2015, 03:17:42 PM »

Yeah they're cheap enough that I can do this 'proof of concept' before I shrink it down as far as it'll go, which would ultimately mean ditching the arduino board which is piggy-backing at the moment.

I'd love to do my own DC/DC converter too at some point

Visus · « **Reply #21 on:** January 27, 2015, 06:51:07 PM »

Quote from: CraigHB on January 27, 2015, 02:25:31 PM

It does make a big difference, the amperage ratings are continuous. Typically with an e-cig there's lots of cooling time. Though voltage is not included there. Most components will fry for sure when taken over maximum voltage ratings. Since the regulator modules are not a single component, rather a collection of components, the voltage they can tolerate is dependant on which chip fries first. Usually there's some margin there, but not a huge amount.

Getting PCBs in the mail is the one of the few things in my life I still get excited about, my own little xmas. Sometimes it takes a lot of work to get them designed and sent out so it's a payoff.

Since I had a few 08100 backups I have tried to fry this chip Craig it is almost bulletproof. I haven't been successful lol..

If it wont do it it goes into hiccup mode right away. They really did a great job on design..
I do not know if murata, or ge, etc., has the same redundant type failsafes as Ti nor would I be inclined to try this so ymmv.

Only issue previously it would jump around at set voltage
Fixed:
Now grabbing ground at the load has totally changed this chips behavior it is rock solid..
Somebody gotta try to find limit of those other pcbs lol..

CraigHB · « **Reply #22 on:** January 28, 2015, 02:25:44 PM »

Quote from: doobedoobedo on January 27, 2015, 03:17:42 PM

I'd love to do my own DC/DC converter too at some point

All I can say there is be prepared for some frustration. They're tempermental bastards. Some I've gotten to work well, others I've given up on. When you use a module, you're saving yourself a world of headache. On the other hand, you can't always get what you want in a module. Mostly they're just step-down so if you need something else it's off to the drawing board.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #23 on:** January 28, 2015, 07:43:53 PM »

The thing for me is that if it works out I'll be dead chuffed, if it doesn't then at least I'll have learned something - even if it's just that DC/DC converters are hard to do

I've been looking at some nice TI buck and buck/boost drivers for them, I'm tempted but I'm not one to rush in blind and know I need to do a fair bit more reading before I start.

norcalreballer · « **Reply #24 on:** January 29, 2015, 12:30:11 AM »

@Visus The 20a OKL2 pushes 30a @7v+ no problem. I think it goes into hiccup mode about 32a or so. Over voltage was about 8.1v unloaded. I put it through the ringer. I want to see what it can take and hasn't failed after months of abuse.

Didn't even know that there was a 4a version. I won't mess with anything that low.

Visus · « **Reply #25 on:** January 29, 2015, 01:58:32 AM »

Quote from: norcalreballer on January 29, 2015, 12:30:11 AM

@Visus The 20a OKL2 pushes 30a @7v+ no problem. I think it goes into hiccup mode about 32a or so. Over voltage was about 8.1v unloaded. I put it through the ringer. I want to see what it can take and hasn't failed after months of abuse.

Didn't even know that there was a 4a version. I won't mess with anything that low.

4ma

I was joking because its unbelievable how underrated some pcbs are.

aw shucks bad joke

Thanks for the raptor update on that..

I want to test the 4050 booster but feeding it off another pcb is the only solution for now and I don't wanna do that lol..
My lil 14500's and 650 lipo's @8-10amps so far but with .8ohm any lower it shuts down so I need stronger batts..
I am thinking it may take up to 15amps I will find out, supposedly buying bats next month lol I cant stop buying 14500's so convenient tiny mods rule for my size hand lol...