Switch rating question

[warlordxxx]

Hey once again fellow modders - I know I haven't been posting much on here but I have been popping in every now and again to have a look how everyone is doing.

To the question batman!

Due to the current state of "I'm going to sub-ohm on that" disease which seems to be going around at the moment - More and more folks are asking me to make my mods sub-ohm compliant. Now although I'm not a fan of the whole idea of sub-ohming I would rather if someone was going to do it then they don't break the mod that they are using. I'm pretty sure that if a switch is not capable of running the Amperage required to subohm it'll do one of two things - Weld together and leave the mod in an always on state - Or burnt out the pressure plate meaning it won't fire (please do correct me if i'm wrong at any point lol) The current switches that I am using for some unregulated straight through mods are rated at 250vac/2A 120vac/3A - On a switch such as this do I move into the Ohms law field whereby the reduction in voltage leads to more amperage capability of the switch - I do currently have one guy subohming at .8 Ohms on a 12v/4A rated switch - Which is 5.25A and he says the switch is holding up just fine (i've told him that I can't guarantee the switch and luckily he's pretty clued up on battery safety and what do if it all starts to go wrong) - Now i'm not planning on putting out mods to people with a sub-ohm capable label on them but it would be nice to know if the switches I have are capable or if they are just playing the waiting game until the switch gives out ..

All advice is welcome - Thanks guys

Dave - Love the mini DNA you put out bud

Oh and just to add i'm now living in the US of A

[zeus17]

warning I am no expert on rating and stuff..

but just to share most box mods here that are capable of sub ohms are using something like a anti vandal switch
something like this..
http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/73/sename/pv2-series-water-resistant-long-life-anti-vandal-switches/default.aspx

so far none of them melted yet hahahha

but most mech mods that are available here are bigger and usually made of thick insulators,something like delrin and brass....

[warlordxxx]

warning I am no expert on rating and stuff..

but just to share most box mods here that are capable of sub ohms are using something like a anti vandal switch
something like this..
http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/73/sename/pv2-series-water-resistant-long-life-anti-vandal-switches/default.aspx

so far none of them melted yet hahahha

but most mech mods that are available here are bigger and usually made of thick insulators,something like delrin and brass....

Thanks Zeus but that's also my point that switch is rated at 2A 48VDC - Mine are rated the same (yup they're metal ones) I wanted to check if they would actually do the job of if it's use with caution or oh my no no don't do that lol

[CraigHB]

You can use Ohm's law to a point with switch ratings, but it breaks down once the level of current flow overheats the contacts.  Maximal currents are not what the ratings specify.  They indicate what the contacts can handle in terms of arcing and wear.  Small DC switches don't typically specify maximal currents. 

My suggestion would be to bench test the ones you are using with a high current power supply to see what they can handle.  This takes voltage out of the equation and tests strictly for the switch's ability to handle current current flow.  If a switch can handle say 30 Amps off a DC power supply without overheating, it should be able to handle the load of a sub-Ohm atomizer without issue.  Obviously, you still need to fall within the power rating for the switch.

[warlordxxx]

I noticed a similar post here that i didn't spot earlier - Incase anyone reads this in the future they'll find some good info on it and can head there too http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,941.0.html Although i'm talking subohm here with a straight through 4.2v Max circuit

[warlordxxx]

You can use Ohm's law to a point with switch ratings, but it breaks down once the level of current flow overheats the contacts.  Maximal currents are not what the ratings specify.  They indicate what the contacts can handle in terms of arcing and wear.  Small DC switches don't typically specify maximal currents. 

My suggestion would be to bench test the ones you are using with a high current power supply to see what they can handle.  This takes voltage out of the equation and tests strictly for the switch's ability to handle current current flow.  If a switch can handle say 30 Amps off a DC power supply without overheating, it should be able to handle the load of a sub-Ohm atomizer without issue.  Obviously, you still need to fall within the power rating for the switch.

Thanks for that Craig

[zeus17]

Thanks Zeus but that's also my point that switch is rated at 2A 48VDC - Mine are rated the same (yup they're metal ones) I wanted to check if they would actually do the job of if it's use with caution or oh my no no don't do that lol

as far as ratings and stuff i have  no say,breaktru or craighb would have better inputs.

but on experience on such switches and sub ohms..
well i do ahve a box mod made by a local vaper,dual batts with the same switch and by far they are holding up in terms of sub ohms...i personally run 0.3ohms on those,,,
here is the mod i use on sub ohms with that same switch


i think switch positioning would be vital and proper insulation...
thou after using the mod on extended periods of time chain vaping,i have not encountered anything looking like melting...

but to give you another idea,most mods here on the forums are suggesting a 3amp switch...
you can refer to the evercool and ptn4050c mod on the modding forum for schematics....

[warlordxxx]

Thanks again Zeus - Not sure why they have left the attachment nut on the outside of the mod but each to their own lmao - That's the kinda thing i was looking for