Author Topic: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter... (Read 382714 times)

onefstsnake · « **Reply #350 on:** August 23, 2014, 11:17:10 AM »

Ok thanks Mamu. Gotta hope radioshack has a 47k resistor. I only have 200's and 4.7k's

_tek_ · « **Reply #351 on:** August 23, 2014, 11:26:27 AM »

Quote from: onefstsnake on August 23, 2014, 11:17:10 AM

Ok thanks Mamu. Gotta hope radioshack has a 47k resistor. I only have 200's and 4.7k's

I used a 4.7k, not 47k. Some confusion there?

joshleeman · « **Reply #352 on:** August 23, 2014, 04:12:56 PM »

No he is talking about the no idle build that takes both. Hey was wondering what type of solder do you all use to build these mods? I have some old "60/40 clear flux solder .063" and some "60/40 rosin core solder .032" so are either of those ideal for these types of aplications or is there something better I could pick up? Thanks

CraigHB · « **Reply #353 on:** August 23, 2014, 06:14:36 PM »

You should use 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead rosin core solder for electronics. The gauge is not critical, but it's easier to do smaller joints with smaller gauge solder. For wires, anything between .015" and .050" should be fine. I don't know what you mean by "clear flux", but there are several of types of rosin core solder and any of those will work fine.

It's possible to use a lead free solder, but the stuff is harder to work with. Unless there's an issue with lead toxicity (like inside an atomizer), the tin/lead stuff is ideal.

karadorde · « **Reply #354 on:** August 23, 2014, 06:24:03 PM »

First box is on the books!! Thanks to everyone, especially mamu! I am absolutely thrilled that it works. It is not nearly as clean as I'd like on the inside, but I guess I will get better at that after I build a few. Other than that, I am ecstatic! Love the way the box came out as a whole and everything works! Woohoo!

joshleeman · « **Reply #355 on:** August 23, 2014, 06:47:15 PM »

Quote from: CraigHB on August 23, 2014, 06:14:36 PM

You should use 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead rosin core solder for electronics. The gauge is not critical, but it's easier to do smaller joints with smaller gauge solder. For wires, anything between .015" and .050" should be fine. I don't know what you mean by "clear flux", but there are several of types of rosin core solder and any of those will work fine.

It's possible to use a lead free solder, but the stuff is harder to work with. Unless there's an issue with lead toxicity (like inside an atomizer), the tin/lead stuff is ideal.

Oh perfect so I'll just use the 60/40 rosin core that I have. The other roll says "60/40 clear flux solder" and to be honest I have no idea what it was originally bought for.

@Karadorde congratz on that beauty, really digging that sort of speckled pattern on the casing

karadorde · « **Reply #356 on:** August 23, 2014, 06:49:00 PM »

Josh, much appreciated it. Its a textured finish. Picked up a can of it for a few bucks at Home Depot today. Of course, I jumped the gun and didn't let it dry all the way. Already marred it up on the back a little bit. Got too excited to get it up and running.

LeeM · « **Reply #357 on:** August 23, 2014, 06:51:14 PM »

love that potentiometer, any part numbers or anything?

karadorde · « **Reply #358 on:** August 23, 2014, 06:55:41 PM »

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P16SNP471MAB15/P16SNP-470-ND/3430484

It's a 470 ohm pot. So that puts you somewhere around 2.0 - 6.0 volts with the 220 res in series.

Breaktru · « **Reply #359 on:** August 23, 2014, 07:00:21 PM »

Quote from: karadorde on August 23, 2014, 06:24:03 PM

First box is on the books!! Thanks to everyone, especially mamu! I am absolutely thrilled that it works. It is not nearly as clean as I'd like on the inside, but I guess I will get better at that after I build a few. Other than that, I am ecstatic! Love the way the box came out as a whole and everything works! Woohoo!

Nice work. Well done. The inside is not bad.
Each new mod will be better than the last.

bob salter · « **Reply #360 on:** August 24, 2014, 10:33:08 AM »

Quote from: bob salter on August 23, 2014, 11:02:26 AM

Would this lipo be good for this build? http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__20390__Turnigy_nano_tech_2200mah_2S_40_80C_Lipo_Pack_TRA2820_Traxxas_1_16_models_.html

Bob

ANyone? Also best charger for them?

Bob

Breaktru · « **Reply #361 on:** August 24, 2014, 10:58:32 AM »

bob salter: the batteries are fine to use.
Here is one of many chargers that you can use ---> http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__41635__iMAX_B6_Compact_50W_5A_Automatic_Balance_Charger_2_6S_Lipoly.html

Quote from: CraigHB on May 23, 2014, 05:00:53 PM

If you're using non-removable cells, they may likely be the 2S LiPos and those come already wired up with the balance charging plug. You just mount the plug in the mod so it's accessible then use the appropriate cable. Hobby King has balance chargers and cables with great prices.

bob salter · « **Reply #362 on:** August 24, 2014, 12:16:49 PM »

Brilliant thank you. Good god postage was gonna be 22gbp.

Sod it I will go to the local rc shop tomorrow and see if they can help.

Bob

karadorde · « **Reply #363 on:** August 24, 2014, 03:59:46 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on August 23, 2014, 07:00:21 PM

Nice work. Well done. The inside is not bad.
Each new mod will be better than the last.

Thanks, Break!! Much appreciated kind words. Can't wait to build the next one.

Quote from: bob salter on August 24, 2014, 12:16:49 PM

Brilliant thank you. Good god postage was gonna be 22gbp. Sod it I will go to the local rc shop tomorrow and see if they can help.

Bob

Damn, I wish those were just a hair smaller. Now I am wondering about wiring some of those in parallel. That voltage and milliamp hours in a 1590 with one of mamu's builds. Yes please.

joshleeman · « **Reply #364 on:** August 24, 2014, 11:19:30 PM »

Is 18awg copper stranded safe to use for this build at or near max power? The awg charts are starting to confuse me and thats what I planned on using

karadorde · « **Reply #365 on:** August 25, 2014, 01:13:49 AM »

I used 18 AWG stranded for all of my load carrying lines. Everything else I ran with 22 AWG stranded.

joshleeman · « **Reply #366 on:** August 25, 2014, 04:12:08 PM »

Ok good, and I know I wont be vaping the raptor anywhere near max power, pretty much ever but I certainly want to have the option to do so safely.

tumbafox · « **Reply #367 on:** August 26, 2014, 07:31:11 PM »

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW EXACTLY WIRE THE 2x22uf CAPACITORS IN PARALLEL AND ATTACH THEM TO THE RAPTOR CHIP. A DIAGRAM OR PICTURE WPOULD BE OF GREAT HELP.

karadorde · « **Reply #368 on:** August 26, 2014, 07:36:10 PM »

Check out this Dustin Brown Video. This gave me an idea of how to do it and I tweaked it a bit to best suit my build. http://youtu.be/8h0eO5DgOxo?list=UUVdA4_-CiiA8KVHy8oa9Gcg

onefstsnake · « **Reply #369 on:** August 27, 2014, 02:21:30 AM »

Are there any dangers to using a .24 ohm coil on the raptor so long as I stay under 20 amps?

karadorde · « **Reply #370 on:** August 27, 2014, 08:50:35 AM »

.24 ohms of resistance at max amperage output of the board (20A) is 4.6 volts. So as long as you don't exceed that, you /should/ be fine.

Rigure · « **Reply #371 on:** August 31, 2014, 04:07:00 PM »

ok, since Breaktru sent me in this direction for my second build, (first was the okrt10) could one of ya check out my parts list? I didn't include the master kill switch, v-meter and rated spdp for it. if you could point me in the right direction for the switches it would be much appreciated. ( i can get the v-meter)

http://www.digikey.com/short/7cznfn

jomurp · « **Reply #372 on:** August 31, 2014, 04:44:32 PM »

Quote from: Rigure on August 31, 2014, 04:07:00 PM

ok, since Breaktru sent me in this direction for my second build, (first was the okrt10) could one of ya check out my parts list? I didn't include the master kill switch, v-meter and rated spdp for it. if you could point me in the right direction for the switches it would be much appreciated. ( i can get the v-meter)

http://www.digikey.com/short/7cznfn

Might I make a suggestion? Avoid the BK battery holder. Go with the Keystone.

Rigure · « **Reply #373 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:38:05 PM »

Thier oos. I plan on changing the contacts out to some solit copper ones after I get them. Using 18 g wire I got on hand. But thank u for the advise.

karadorde · « **Reply #374 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:41:17 PM »

Curious what the TL431 is for.

Also, I used the MPD battery holder with no issue. A little tweaking of the contacts and sled and they work perfectly.

david4500 · « **Reply #375 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:43:34 PM »

You're going to have a hard time fitting all of that into a 1590G for your first build. Go with 1590B so you have some more room.

david4500 · « **Reply #376 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:45:16 PM »

Quote from: Rigure on August 31, 2014, 05:38:05 PM

Thier oos. I plan on changing the contacts out to some solit copper ones after I get them. Using 18 g wire I got on hand. But thank u for the advise.

Copper is not a proper spring material

Keystone holders have the lowest resistance, post showing test results: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=1226.0

Rigure · « **Reply #377 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:51:16 PM »

Quote from: karadorde on August 31, 2014, 05:41:17 PM

Curious what the TL431 is for.

Also, I used the MPD battery holder with no issue. A little tweaking of the contacts and sled and they work perfectly.

the tl431 and related resisters are for a low batter indicator. You can find the related post on the mod page by breaktru.

Quote from: david4500 on August 31, 2014, 05:43:34 PM

You're going to have a hard time fitting all of that into a 1590G for your first build. Go with 1590B so you have some more room.

I also have a 1590B box and a BIG damn pipe mod to play with. As for Copper not being proper spring material, I agree its not all that springy. With a litter rework tho i can put in flat contacts. should work just fine. I just dont really know what switches to go with. Cant seem to deside on one.

karadorde · « **Reply #378 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:53:08 PM »

I didn't look but in guessing a sort of voltage divider using the tl431 as a reference. I like it.

Rigure · « **Reply #379 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:58:06 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on May 14, 2013, 06:34:49 PM

I used the schematic from Electronics-DIY.com and revised it for one LED and for two 3.7 cells. Will indicate at 6.0v.
Use 1% resistors. 1/8 watts is fine. The components can be wired tightly together as shown in the Elect. DIY photo except there will be one LED not two and one more resistor.
See the attached photo (only viewable to logged on members).

I have it also revised it for a single 3.7v cell and low voltage indicates at 3.0v but need to tweak it for a brighter LED illumination.
It's not as easy as I thought. Changing the resistor for the LED will also effect the Adjustable precision shunt regulator (TL431) from turning on. The Ref pin requires 2.5v to turn on.

The attached schematics show an ON-Semi diode. Pin numbers vary on manufacture so check your manufactures datasheet.
See --> DETAILS

**I am happy to share info with all that drop by this forum. So dropping a mention when you post your mod elsewhere would be a decent gesture.
Show your support by signing up as a member and please participate by posting**

i like the idea of having a light come on to tell me when its time to charge em up.

david4500 · « **Reply #380 on:** August 31, 2014, 06:00:13 PM »

On-off-on for voltmeter:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GPTS203312B/CW183-ND/3190594
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/48ASSP3S1M2RBT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtHXLepoqNyVVRVQihvRYkcot2uKlh3h9k%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/1103M2S3CQE2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtHXLepoqNyVW7E3ZN7KLOfxTr%252bmBVmt2k%3d

on-on (use as an on-off) and off-on (only to disconnect fire switch. do not use as a master switch, neither are rated for full current load):
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1103M2S3CQE2virtualkey61170000virtualkey611-1103M2S3CQE2
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GPTS203211B/CW181-ND/3190590

are you using the n-fet to pair with an on-off to use as a master switch?

Rigure · « **Reply #381 on:** August 31, 2014, 07:06:35 PM »

the n-fet is for a non-rated master switch and stops the low v power drain from the chip. (thats as i understand it).

bob salter · « **Reply #382 on:** September 01, 2014, 06:04:57 AM »

My thanks to everyone for all the information here. Finished the first raptor mod. Am going to make the arduino okl2 t20 next, then back to more raptors.

Thanks again
Bob

El Zipster · « **Reply #383 on:** September 01, 2014, 11:09:29 AM »

Hi to everyone, Ist post here, must say I've learned a lot in a few of weeks of lurking

Just finished my Raptor 120 and have run into a small snag.
Everything is fine and it's vaping, but..... I have a problem with the pot and could use some advice to rectify it. I'm getting 3.4v at the bottom end and only 3.9v at the top end, any ideas? I.m using 1/4watt 220ohm resistor on a bourns 200 ohm, 0.5watt pot, and wired as per Mamu's schematic.
Cheers
Zip

Breaktru · « **Reply #384 on:** September 01, 2014, 12:17:47 PM »

Hi El Zipser, glad that your came out of lurking mode and into posting mode

Double check the fixed resistor value. Make sure it is actually 220 ohms. The fixed resistor and the pot zeroed should give you the 6V.
Also check that you wired your fixed resistor in series w/ the pot between Trim + and Trim - and not to gnd.

El Zipster · « **Reply #385 on:** September 01, 2014, 03:24:40 PM »

Thanks Breakthru
I'll have me a lookie

Cheers
Zip

El Zipster · « **Reply #386 on:** September 01, 2014, 04:57:24 PM »

Problem solved :cheesy:
Turns out I mounted the shim on the pcb mounting board to close to the pot wheel therefore restriction full movement, Doh!
Cheers
Zip

Breaktru · « **Reply #387 on:** September 01, 2014, 05:17:33 PM »

Glad it was as simple as that.

joshleeman · « **Reply #388 on:** September 03, 2014, 07:44:37 PM »

Quote from: El Zipster on September 01, 2014, 04:57:24 PM

Problem solved :cheesy:
Turns out I mounted the shim on the pcb mounting board to close to the pot wheel therefore restriction full movement, Doh!
Cheers
Zip

I had a doh moment as well when I got a okr box mod and after using it for several days found it underwhelming, even left a review stating I wished it had more power. One morning I was braking in a new build and used a mini screwdriver to max out my pot back to my normal full power and realized there was a stiff spot at about 60% power which all along I had thought was max power because I was being super gentle with the pot.

Visus · « **Reply #389 on:** September 03, 2014, 11:13:44 PM »

Quote from: joshleeman on September 03, 2014, 07:44:37 PM

I had a doh moment as well when I got a okr box mod and after using it for several days found it underwhelming, even left a review stating I wished it had more power. One morning I was braking in a new build and used a mini screwdriver to max out my pot back to my normal full power and realized there was a stiff spot at about 60% power which all along I had thought was max power because I was being super gentle with the pot.

Cannot imagine the smile on your faces when you two sorted those pot issues-- a true whoa moment..

They are some powerful modz, the raptor is stupid powerful..
Whats wild is the commercial industry turn to quad coils needing huge watts 30+ in the new turbo atomizers; its a whole nother level of vaping starting..
busardo just did a review of a kanger aerotank turbo, it chucks enormous amounts of vapor. It still needs a few teaks but when they get er dun it will be a norm for many non coilers vapers usig high watt device to use as a topper.

joshleeman · « **Reply #390 on:** September 04, 2014, 10:19:29 PM »

Hey everyone, was wondering if I could get some ideas on how to make my 510 look a little more flush on a hammond 1590b without a dremel or beltsander. I dont think the ole dental floss is gonna cut it on this one :-)

mmilby · « **Reply #391 on:** September 10, 2014, 05:44:45 PM »

Does anyone have a part number i can go off of for the PFET? I'm having trouble picking out one.

karadorde · « **Reply #392 on:** September 10, 2014, 05:46:00 PM »

SUP75P03-07-E3-ND

bob salter · « **Reply #393 on:** September 12, 2014, 09:16:25 AM »

Just troubleshooting this build. I have used the raptor wiring for the switch along with the fet for no idle current. When I press the switch the board is getting power on pin two, but the board isnt firing. I originally had v+ sense connected to Vin rather than Vout. Am I likely to have cooked the board? I doubt it as nothing got hot or smoked. I have now moved the V+sense to Vout but the board wont fire. Any ideas before I try swapping out the board?

Bob

joshleeman · « **Reply #394 on:** September 12, 2014, 08:17:09 PM »

ok so I have everything soldered together outside the box and would like to test as many things as possible before putting batteries in. Is there anyhting I can do with a multimeter to make sure my connections are good and make sure I didnt destroy any parts when soldering? I heard resistors are very sensitive to heat so id love to make sure everythings is safe, or as many things as possible to try and avoid "frying" stuff. what sort of things could I test for safety, if any? Thanks so much!!

CraigHB · « **Reply #395 on:** September 13, 2014, 09:57:28 AM »

Resistors are actually pretty tough. The most delicate thing heat wise is going to be the circuit board and any components on it close to solder points. If you're using a temperature regulated soldering iron, it's pretty unlikely you would overheat something unless you resolder it several times or take an unusually long time to complete a joint.

You can check your connections with you multi-meter's ohmmeter by applying the probes end to end. You probably won't see a poor solder connection with it, but it will give you some peace of mind if they all ring out okay. You can also check your input and output voltages, ideally if you can rig a load on it and fire it up.

collinl · « **Reply #396 on:** September 13, 2014, 06:13:10 PM »

Hey all, I was wondering if someone could explain the purpose of the 4.7k pulldown resistor and the math behind it. Thanks!

bamanerd · « **Reply #397 on:** September 15, 2014, 04:46:03 PM »

hi again all,

I finally got my board in, which was the last of my parts, on Thursday. I started work on it Friday evening after work, and I soldered the last wire and put the batteries in on Sunday afternoon. At first everything was looking good. I flipped the master switch and the voltmeter lit up with 8.42 volts. With no load, I switched the mini-slide switch to Vout, hit the fire button, and it showed 4.6x volts (fluctuating).

Trouble begins:
The adjustment of the pot does not translate to a change in Vout.
When I put the atty on and hit the fire button, nothing happens... no voltage display on the DM and no vape.
I pulled out the DMM and started poking around. There is 8 volts at Vin and 1-3 volts on anything that's not directly connected to the input 8V. When I hit the fire switch the 4.6x volts exits Vout and goes to the 510, but only when there is no load. When there is a load the output voltage does not change.

I'm at work right now, so I can't check anything until I get home this evening.

Should there be a 1.xx volt current at Vout when the fire button is open, or is that indication of a short?

Why would the pot not adjust the output voltage?

I'm attaching a schematic I pieced together from Mamu's just to show how I have mine hooked up. This schematic is only for the purpose of showing you all what I have going on, and won't be used anywhere else, in case anyone is wondering. I put this together sitting here at work, so if something looks screwy, I may have messed up the schematic. I quickly looked over everything again, and I think it's right, but I'll look at everything again once I get home.

Any ideas? I'm kind of at a loss....and on the verge of pulling everything out and starting over.

joshleeman · « **Reply #398 on:** September 15, 2014, 07:43:01 PM »

So I ran into what I think is an issue but I wanted to get some feedback on it. I got the pot thats pictured below and when I was going to mount it (epoxy it to inside of METAL case) I just realized that the metal connections are exposed and exactly where it was to sit flush. I'm trying to figure out what to do here, I thought to just cover it with a small piece of electrical tape and then epoxy but Im just picturing the tape unsticking as soon as pressure is put on it from above. Will coating the exposed pieces with liquid electrical tape and then epoxying it be safe and durable? Should I get another pot? What would you do? Thanks

michamer · « **Reply #399 on:** September 15, 2014, 08:01:58 PM »

Quote from: joshleeman on September 15, 2014, 07:43:01 PM

So I ran into what I think is an issue but I wanted to get some feedback on it. I got the pot thats pictured below and when I was going to mount it (epoxy it to inside of METAL case) I just realized that the metal connections are exposed and exactly where it was to sit flush. I'm trying to figure out what to do here, I thought to just cover it with a small piece of electrical tape and then epoxy but Im just picturing the tape unsticking as soon as pressure is put on it from above. Will coating the exposed pieces with liquid electrical tape and then epoxying it be safe and durable? Should I get another pot? What would you do? Thanks

Is that a pot that has a removable shaft that inserts in the middle? If so, can the shaft be inserted on the opposite side?