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Ok thanks Mamu. Gotta hope radioshack has a 47k resistor. I only have 200's and 4.7k's
You should use 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead rosin core solder for electronics. The gauge is not critical, but it's easier to do smaller joints with smaller gauge solder. For wires, anything between .015" and .050" should be fine. I don't know what you mean by "clear flux", but there are several of types of rosin core solder and any of those will work fine.It's possible to use a lead free solder, but the stuff is harder to work with. Unless there's an issue with lead toxicity (like inside an atomizer), the tin/lead stuff is ideal.
First box is on the books!! Thanks to everyone, especially mamu! I am absolutely thrilled that it works. It is not nearly as clean as I'd like on the inside, but I guess I will get better at that after I build a few. Other than that, I am ecstatic! Love the way the box came out as a whole and everything works! Woohoo!
Would this lipo be good for this build? http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__20390__Turnigy_nano_tech_2200mah_2S_40_80C_Lipo_Pack_TRA2820_Traxxas_1_16_models_.htmlBob
If you're using non-removable cells, they may likely be the 2S LiPos and those come already wired up with the balance charging plug. You just mount the plug in the mod so it's accessible then use the appropriate cable. Hobby King has balance chargers and cables with great prices.
Nice work. Well done. The inside is not bad.Each new mod will be better than the last.
Brilliant thank you. Good god postage was gonna be 22gbp. Sod it I will go to the local rc shop tomorrow and see if they can help.Bob
ok, since Breaktru sent me in this direction for my second build, (first was the okrt10) could one of ya check out my parts list? I didn't include the master kill switch, v-meter and rated spdp for it. if you could point me in the right direction for the switches it would be much appreciated. ( i can get the v-meter)http://www.digikey.com/short/7cznfn
Thier oos. I plan on changing the contacts out to some solit copper ones after I get them. Using 18 g wire I got on hand. But thank u for the advise.
Curious what the TL431 is for. Also, I used the MPD battery holder with no issue. A little tweaking of the contacts and sled and they work perfectly.
You're going to have a hard time fitting all of that into a 1590G for your first build. Go with 1590B so you have some more room.
I used the schematic from Electronics-DIY.com and revised it for one LED and for two 3.7 cells. Will indicate at 6.0v.Use 1% resistors. 1/8 watts is fine. The components can be wired tightly together as shown in the Elect. DIY photo except there will be one LED not two and one more resistor.See the attached photo (only viewable to logged on members).I have it also revised it for a single 3.7v cell and low voltage indicates at 3.0v but need to tweak it for a brighter LED illumination.It's not as easy as I thought. Changing the resistor for the LED will also effect the Adjustable precision shunt regulator (TL431) from turning on. The Ref pin requires 2.5v to turn on.The attached schematics show an ON-Semi diode. Pin numbers vary on manufacture so check your manufactures datasheet.See --> DETAILS**I am happy to share info with all that drop by this forum. So dropping a mention when you post your mod elsewhere would be a decent gesture.Show your support by signing up as a member and please participate by posting**
Problem solved :cheesy:Turns out I mounted the shim on the pcb mounting board to close to the pot wheel therefore restriction full movement, Doh!CheersZip
I had a doh moment as well when I got a okr box mod and after using it for several days found it underwhelming, even left a review stating I wished it had more power. One morning I was braking in a new build and used a mini screwdriver to max out my pot back to my normal full power and realized there was a stiff spot at about 60% power which all along I had thought was max power because I was being super gentle with the pot.
So I ran into what I think is an issue but I wanted to get some feedback on it. I got the pot thats pictured below and when I was going to mount it (epoxy it to inside of METAL case) I just realized that the metal connections are exposed and exactly where it was to sit flush. I'm trying to figure out what to do here, I thought to just cover it with a small piece of electrical tape and then epoxy but Im just picturing the tape unsticking as soon as pressure is put on it from above. Will coating the exposed pieces with liquid electrical tape and then epoxying it be safe and durable? Should I get another pot? What would you do? Thanks