Author Topic: Tinkering with the Naos Raptor - 20A, 120W dc/dc converter... (Read 394899 times)

tumbafox · « **Reply #450 on:** October 06, 2014, 12:16:52 PM »

Instead of using a master switch at all, why not simply use a switch cover like you see on airplanes and spaceships to prevent accidental firing like this one: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgrefurl=https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9278&tbnid=ZZCGbE2ZLyuATM:&docid=h8p0aW6ynUQBVM&h=600&w=600

Breaktru · « **Reply #451 on:** October 06, 2014, 12:21:22 PM »

Ha, Ha
Cool but maybe annoying to chain vapers

bamanerd · « **Reply #452 on:** October 06, 2014, 02:26:51 PM »

I still like the idea of a master switch just in case something goes wrong, so you can quickly kill power before blowing yourself up

My master switch is HUGE, and I hated working around that thing, but there was no way that I was leaving it out.

I left out the P-fet, at my own risk, because I accidentally ordered the wrong one, and was too anxious to wait for another. As long as I never flip-flop the batteries, alles klar (all is good), but.... the one time I put the batteries in wrong and flip that switch.... there goes my board. I also do not have the N-fet, because I'm not worried about idle current drain. Mine will never sit long enough for that to be a factor. Plus... that's what the master kill switch is for.

As far as the voltmeter, you can absolutely leave that out. I wouldn't want to, but that's just me. I like knowing where I'm vaping, and how much juice is left in my batteries. If you feel comfy not having a voltage readout, by all means. It can also aid in on-the-fly troubleshooting when you don't have a DMM handy.

It's really all up to you, and what you feel comfortable with. Whatever the case, be safe!!! and update us with your progress!

Good luck Mad!!

Madyicstik · « **Reply #453 on:** October 07, 2014, 01:32:08 PM »

i love mouser! parts came in. its build time!!

has anybody used this inline volt metere/ampmeter before??

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17864__In_Line_Voltage_and_Amperage_Meter.html

bamanerd · « **Reply #454 on:** October 07, 2014, 01:51:27 PM »

Awesome

Can't wait to see how it turns out.

I'm by no means a professional, but it appears that meter requires a minimum of 5V to kick on. I don't know about everyone else, but I rarely vape over 5V. I tend to build lower resistance coils, even when I try to build higher, lol. So... idk man. If you try it, let us know.

Madyicstik · « **Reply #455 on:** October 07, 2014, 01:54:09 PM »

will do, i normally vape at .5ohm and 5 volt. i built my selt an okr and it works great.

i tried that meter, and it turned on at 4.2 volts. i cant wait to get home and start building.

bamanerd · « **Reply #456 on:** October 10, 2014, 10:53:53 AM »

How's it coming along, Mad? It's good to hear that the voltmeter comes on closer to 4V. I'm curious if that's across the board, or if each unit is different due to tolerance. I'd like to check it out, so I may order a couple to play with. I'm also curious about how you switch between volts/amperes, or if it just flashes one then the other (or something like that).

I'm itching to get back to building. I've gotta get some things ordered, so I can start back up. I really want to get a little more hi-tech with a build. Like a digital pot with tactile buttons, and a multi-function readout. Something similar to Craig's Powerblok would be nice. http://www.thevapersden.com/index.php?topic=5900.0;prev_next=next#new
I know that would be much, much more work, and would require much, much more knowledge and skill, but I WANT.... lol

Anywho.... hope it's going well for you and all of the other builders out there. Have a great weekend everyone! It's a long weekend for me due to Columbus day.

**Edit**
So, I was reading the reviews of this volt/ammeter, and I came across two informative comments: a.) The readout is displayed in the following sequence: U, voltage, A, amps.... at apprx 4 sec intervals. b.) The meter displays accurate voltage from 4V, but the ammeter is erratic until the voltage reaches 5+ volts (stated start-up voltage). I hope this helps anyone who has questions about it, as I did.

screwfunk · « **Reply #457 on:** October 15, 2014, 09:02:43 PM »

@Mamu

If I wanted to leave the Nfet out and just use the PFET, can I still strap the Zener across vin and on/off like you have in your diagram or do I have to only strap it across ON/OFF. I already set up a bunch of the chips with the never across the Vin and on/off but have decided to skip the NFET. Any help would be appreciated.

Sam

mamu · « **Reply #458 on:** October 17, 2014, 06:16:29 PM »

Quote from: screwfunk on October 15, 2014, 09:02:43 PM

@Mamu

If I wanted to leave the Nfet out and just use the PFET, can I still strap the Zener across vin and on/off like you have in your diagram or do I have to only strap it across ON/OFF. I already set up a bunch of the chips with the never across the Vin and on/off but have decided to skip the NFET. Any help would be appreciated.

Sam

With the original diagram, it wouldn't be doable to bypass the fire switch connection and hook the zener straight across from on/off to Vin.

screwfunk · « **Reply #459 on:** October 18, 2014, 02:35:59 AM »

Thank you very much. I ended up getting it right and have built my first two boxes using the standard 1590b and kept the pfet and dropped the nfet. Thing works awesmome. I am now building one using perf board and its looking very clean. Ill post pics when done. Mamu, breakthru, and the rest of the group, big thankyou for helping out.

bamanerd · « **Reply #460 on:** October 18, 2014, 01:51:31 PM »

That's great screwfunk. I can't wait to see how they look.

karadorde · « **Reply #461 on:** October 22, 2014, 01:28:29 AM »

Checking in again. Third raptor build. I built this at cost for a manager at a local b&m.

Pretty standard as far as Raptors go. All the bells and whistles minus the fuses and rated master switch. The rocker switch I used only cuts voltage to the fire switch so it doesn't kill the entire circuit.

Some of my components incase anyone is curious:

Potentiometer: 93PR200LF
Switch: E-Switch PV5
Sled: Keystone 1048
Dispaly: 2 Wire Voltmeter - Adafruit
FDV 510
Rocker Switches: Cherry SR Series

Just a note, these pics were right after I soldered my last connection. Just a quick test to check and make sure everything was working. Next steps are epoxy the sled, switch, and voltmeter. Touch up some paint. And throw some insulation on a few connections just for safety's sake.

Thanks for the help to all. I am having a bit too much fun building these.

Breaktru · « **Reply #462 on:** October 22, 2014, 06:53:05 AM »

Quote from: karadorde on October 22, 2014, 01:28:29 AM

Checking in again. Third raptor build. I built this at cost for a manager at a local b&m.

Pretty standard as far as Raptors go. All the bells and whistles minus the fuses and rated master switch. The rocker switch I used only cuts voltage to the fire switch so it doesn't kill the entire circuit.

Fun, ain't it.
Looking good

screwfunk · « **Reply #463 on:** October 22, 2014, 06:59:11 AM »

Quote from: karadorde on August 23, 2014, 06:55:41 PM

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P16SNP471MAB15/P16SNP-470-ND/3430484

It's a 470 ohm pot. So that puts you somewhere around 2.0 - 6.0 volts with the 220 res in series.

As I am new to this, please bare with me. Anybody who knows the answer to this, help me out. I noticed you linked a 470 ohm pot, I assumed we could only use the 200 ohm pot. Please explain how I can choose to use a diffrenf rated pot and what I have to do to compensate for its higher rating.... School is in session and I'm ready to learn...... Thank you in advance.

Breaktru · « **Reply #464 on:** October 22, 2014, 07:18:48 AM »

Quote from: screwfunk on October 22, 2014, 06:59:11 AM

As I am new to this, please bare with me. Anybody who knows the answer to this, help me out. I noticed you linked a 470 ohm pot, I assumed we could only use the 200 ohm pot. Please explain how I can choose to use a diffrenf rated pot and what I have to do to compensate for its higher rating.... School is in session and I'm ready to learn...... Thank you in advance.

Always refer to the datasheet when using a component.
Look at page 14 of DATASHEET , Table 2. Also you will see a formula.
The fixed resistor will give you the top end of your output voltage and the pot maxed plus fixed resistance will give you your low end of your output voltage. Try to keep it to a usable voltage range. Going to low a voltage is useless. You will have a better dial control if kept to a useable range.

screwfunk · « **Reply #465 on:** October 22, 2014, 07:24:51 AM »

Also one more thing, here is a pick of my first raptor build. It was a challenge seeing that this is the first time I really solders smaller components or did something like this on a smaller scale. Look forward to building more. I do have the pfet and fuses wrapped up with the raptor .

screwfunk · « **Reply #466 on:** October 22, 2014, 07:32:50 AM »

Breakthru,
awesome info, thankyou very much for pointing that out. That gives me a little more flexibility in choosing a pot.

Things just keep getting better.
Thank you veryuch
screwfunk

bamanerd · « **Reply #467 on:** November 03, 2014, 10:25:25 AM »

Well guys... and gal(s), the Raptor is sold out everywhere again, and rather than pay 30 or 40 bucks to some jerk on eBay, I ordered two OKL2-T20's and they came in Saturday, along with everything else I ordered. The chips are much smaller than the Raptor, if you've never seen one, so this should be fun. I should be able to get creative when putting this thing together, as far as which box I use, which pot, button, switches... all that jazz without having to worry about space. Wish me luck!!

I'm going to try to work on one in the evenings this week after work and try to have it done by Friday night or Saturday sometime. I already have this one promised to my best friend (for cash of course

). I will keep my progress updated over on the OKL page, so come check it out.

Side note: I've got this tiny little PTR08100W still, so I'm going to build my gf a mod with it. She's a tiny girl with tiny hands, so I figure I can make her a nice, tiny 55W regulated mod. She wants something round, so I'm open for ideas.... and yes, lol, I know I just opened myself up for cheap shots with that line. I mean a case/tube! Don't be vulgar!!

Breaktru's copper mod that he made with this chip/board is really nice. I don't know that a 25 year old girly girl would be that big into straight copper, so we'll see what we can come up with that is "purdy enuff.".

She also doesn't smoke, so she doesn't need something that hits like a freight train. I made her a batch of Strawberry-Banana 0mg nic juice, and she loves it. I gave her my KangerTech Evod VV battery with an Aspire something-or-another (I can't remember now off the top of my head) carto. She wants more flavor (vapor). That juice I made her is by far the best tasting strawberry flavor I've made thus far, so I know she wants to really taste it. Hell... I do too.

Good luck everyone out there building and vape happy!!

Rico · « **Reply #468 on:** November 29, 2014, 10:23:36 AM »

Hi everybody,

This is my first post here and I would like to share the work I did with my first mod box.

This is (yet another) Naos Raptor 20A build that is nothing from spectacular:
- I just grabbed all useful information (thanks everyone) in this forum and applied it on this build.
- The box is a standard Hammond 1590B case.
- The schematic used was one of Mamu's using a single PFET for reverse polarity and use of an unrated switch, thanks a lot Mamu for your great work!

What I wanted special is to have all components hidden into the case (including voltage potentiometer and display) and be shown as nicely as possible when you open the box.
After a bit of thinking I went to a solution with 2 PCBs (these are cutted perfboards with routing using soldered wires):
- the 'display' PCB that would contain:
* voltage display
* voltage potentiometer
* reverse polarity led indication
* battery/atty voltage switch
- the 'power' PCB that would contain:
* naos raptor chip
* the NFET
* undervoltage protection diode
* capacitors and resistances
- the fuses are separate and connected to the power PCB using standard wire

I covered the top of the PCBs using black wire tape in order to have something more eye candy

So here are the images :p

The display PCB done (and tested)

The display PCB bottom side (I know its ugly)

The display PCB inside the case with the battery sled, power pcb not populated yet.

All PCBs done and wired together (tested and worked the first try, so lucky!)

Finished box from the outside

Finished box from the inside

It took me a looong time to finish it, most of the problems being to find a place for all the cables below the PCBs.
But it works, and wonderfully: It will be hard for me to go back to mechanical mods with their voltage drop problems.
People are looking at me like strangely in the street but I don't care

See ya!

Breaktru · « **Reply #469 on:** November 29, 2014, 10:46:45 AM »

Great job laying it all out with the PCB's. Looks fantastic

Rico · « **Reply #470 on:** November 29, 2014, 10:55:14 AM »

Thank you

Now need to find the courage to build the same again for my brother, LOL.

And also think on a new kind of build for the next ones

rrtwister · « **Reply #471 on:** November 29, 2014, 02:05:06 PM »

Nice work Rico. Real smart looking

wa9w00d · « **Reply #472 on:** November 29, 2014, 06:28:24 PM »

Very neat, impressive work! congratulations, Rico!

Visus · « **Reply #473 on:** November 29, 2014, 06:52:16 PM »

You left your empty druggie bag out
nice work tho

Rico · « **Reply #474 on:** November 30, 2014, 05:35:35 AM »

ROTF

Didn't cleaned the table before taking the photos :p
Took it just after the mod was assembled.

I'm using it for 3 weeks now, and loving it.
This Raptor chip is a beast!

I will never use it at max power though, for me 30/35W is more than enough.
I tried once at 50W (5V with a 0.5Ohm dual coil) and this thing is a big fog machine

, but too hot for my taste.

jacobprescott · « **Reply #475 on:** January 11, 2015, 10:24:26 AM »

Can anyone give me some links to buy the Raptor 20a chip, preferably uk sites please as i need it asap.

Rico · « **Reply #476 on:** January 11, 2015, 04:52:41 PM »

Hello,

Digikey UK seem to have them in stock, please look at the address below:
http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/NSR020A0X43Z/555-1139-ND/1964566

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #477 on:** January 11, 2015, 05:16:27 PM »

Digikey and mouser both deliver to the UK from the US. Delivery charges are pretty hefty (so it's worth ordering enough to get free delivery if you can), but they get here quickly. You'll need to add VAT to any prices listed too.

jacobprescott · « **Reply #478 on:** January 11, 2015, 05:50:26 PM »

Going to order them tomorrow, cheers

Btw does anyone know where out there has any step by step instructions or videos to build this exact schematic, would be a great help as need the info for a college project, thanks.

Rico · « **Reply #479 on:** January 12, 2015, 01:22:22 PM »

I personally used this old schematic from Mamu:

It does not have the N-fet so is simpler to wire as it has less components.
I removed the master rated on/off switch and added a small one (unrated) in series with the on/off push button.
The P-FET I used is the SUP75P03: it is legged big component that is easy to solder.

Cheers.

david4500 · « **Reply #480 on:** January 12, 2015, 07:55:50 PM »

Quote from: jacobprescott on January 11, 2015, 05:50:26 PM

Going to order them tomorrow, cheers
Btw does anyone know where out there has any step by step instructions or videos to build this exact schematic, would be a great help as need the info for a college project, thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChbLnX8JcsN9bH4BNgJZ6wA/videos

and the following link has some videos on soldering individual components

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVdA4_-CiiA8KVHy8oa9Gcg/videos

jacobprescott · « **Reply #481 on:** January 13, 2015, 05:41:13 AM »

Cheers guys, appreciate it

jacobprescott · « **Reply #482 on:** January 15, 2015, 04:46:53 AM »

Hi guys,

Sorry to bother you agin but I'm having trouble figuring out what the difference is between Non-rated fire switch and a Rated fire switch etc. And does it actually make a difference?

mamu · « **Reply #483 on:** January 15, 2015, 10:37:38 AM »

We say non-rated to mean that you can use any switch you want for the fire switch - there is no amp rating required.

A rated switch would mean that you have to use a switch that has an amp rating at least the max current of the converter.

jacobprescott · « **Reply #484 on:** January 15, 2015, 01:05:39 PM »

Quote from: mamu on January 15, 2015, 10:37:38 AM

We say non-rated to mean that you can use any switch you want for the fire switch - there is no amp rating required.

A rated switch would mean that you have to use a switch that has an amp rating at least the max current of the converter.

Thanks mamu, i was racking my brain trying to work it out haha.

Could i get some advice from a professional to a newbie?

mamu · « **Reply #485 on:** January 15, 2015, 01:12:39 PM »

Of course. me, breaktru, Craig, and others are here to help.

jacobprescott · « **Reply #486 on:** January 15, 2015, 01:22:22 PM »

Where would you recommend buying the...

N-FET IRLR8743PBF,

P-FET IPD042P03L3 G,

from, bearing in mind i liven the UK?

And would this case be okay to fit in all the components etc.

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1590GBK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsrGrAVj6eTvc4t%252bXlGtxAky4qS7dcRmqc%3d

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #487 on:** January 15, 2015, 04:03:34 PM »

I'd have thought a 1590G would be a bit of a tight fit. The 1590B is a more popular case for modding. No harm in getting both. If it fits the G then you're quids in and you can use the B for your next project

.

mamu · « **Reply #488 on:** January 15, 2015, 07:27:33 PM »

jacob - I'm not familiar with uk electronics sites, but does not the uk mouser and uk digikey stock the FETs? If not you may have to google uk sites for what you need.

doobedoobedo · « **Reply #489 on:** January 15, 2015, 08:13:34 PM »

I usually buy from Farnell in the UK (minimum order is £20), but raptors only seem to be available from mouser at the moment, so if you're already paying the huge amount of postage for that you might as well pick up everything else you need from them at the same time.

jacobprescott · « **Reply #490 on:** January 16, 2015, 03:19:53 PM »

Visus · « **Reply #491 on:** January 16, 2015, 06:29:27 PM »

Quote

12. Metal Film Resistors- http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4DC4R70F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvJbyh5%2fSz2%2fXu8dD1WI7%252bN

Wrong resistor
4.7k ohms not 4.7ohms
your also not listing your set resistor/5.6v zener or you already have it

Quote

11. LED Digital Panel Volt Meter - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3-30V-0-36-2-Wire-LED-Digital-Panel-Volt-Meter-Voltage-Voltmeter-Car-Motor-/351026520215?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&var=&hash=item51bacfa097

If you dont mind a lil wait you can buy the smaller 3v-30v version from china for much less £99

The keystone 1048 holder houses the best contacts on the market, tested by Bap do a search for battery contacts and bapgood

jacobprescott · « **Reply #492 on:** January 17, 2015, 07:25:33 AM »

This is why i need you lot haha,
i will correct my mistakes and definitely choose the keystone 1048 holder then.

How much of a wait for the china version?
And do you have a link?

Appreciate the support through this journey.

Visus · « **Reply #493 on:** January 17, 2015, 03:59:30 PM »

Prolly a ~week and half not sure but thats what it takes to get here...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-DC-0-100V-3-Digital-Display-Panel-Motor-Mini-Yellow-Voltage-Voltmeter-New-Q-/251673640887?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item3a98eaffb7

jacobprescott · « **Reply #494 on:** January 18, 2015, 09:42:55 AM »

Is this POT okay to buy even though its 220ohms and not 200ohms...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-PCS-Piher-Trimmer-Preset-Potentiometer-220-Ohm-PT10H-/220781521773?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item33679aab6d

Visus · « **Reply #495 on:** January 18, 2015, 02:22:18 PM »

I could not tell ya, some pots strip adjustment slot really easy that one looks suspect, so I would get a knob with it if you can..

The regulator wont go to lowest setting of 3.?v with 220ohm is all.. It will have a very slightly higher bottom end..

If your using mouser best to get it from there
its £50 @ mouser £3.50 ebay..

Your asking weird question spend more £ there, excited are ya?

This pot you can easily adjust with your fingers hidden inside the box its awesome but quickly adjust voltage not so smooth.
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3352T-1-201LF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7rufck0TIBKy3BWVwyA0FAQ%3d

This pot wont strip and you can make an outside access port hole with smooth voltage adjustments
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3266W-1-201LF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7rufck0TIBKy8zmW4GJpCV0%3d

Another hard to but can strip pot decently smooth
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3306K-1-201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7sSg8po3Zpo32ZYTTNIZD6E%3d

jacobprescott · « **Reply #496 on:** January 18, 2015, 02:45:55 PM »

Everything ordered now, yes i am very excited to start and interested to see how it turns out, will keep everyone updated if interested.

hill115side · « **Reply #497 on:** January 22, 2015, 11:12:30 AM »

LPV has been testing and has released this OKL2 110 Watt PCB BASED mod...

hyenaboy34 · « **Reply #498 on:** January 22, 2015, 11:59:24 AM »

very nice too bad pre orders are closed. I also like my big honking Potentiometer as well, I never liked the ones Hex Ohm used feels too cheap and they wear out pretty quick. Nice idea and job on their part though, makes it pretty easy for someone to not screw it up and create a grenade :-)

jacobprescott · « **Reply #499 on:** January 22, 2015, 03:31:01 PM »

Question?
What is the purpose of the 22uf capacitors on the Naos Raptor 20a circuit?