Author Topic: DNA 30D Mod by Breaktru (Read 130110 times)

bullcross · « **Reply #100 on:** April 21, 2014, 07:49:55 PM »

I don't know why you are laughing as it's you who will be answering my noob questions every 5 mins lol

Cracking forum by the way .

Breaktru · « **Reply #101 on:** April 21, 2014, 07:51:30 PM »

Thanks, welcome to the forum.

We're here to help. Just post away.......
Remember there is a 5 hr time difference from New York to the UK

david4500 · « **Reply #102 on:** May 08, 2014, 11:36:08 PM »

Can a 1 amp charger be wired to the DNA board, or just connect it to the battery?

CraigHB · « **Reply #103 on:** May 09, 2014, 01:23:12 AM »

You can go either way, but I think it would be better to connect your charger directly to the battery. No reason to add connections to the board where they aren't necessary. The ones on the DNA board are simply a convenience, though I seem to recall some mention of an issue with those charger feeds. Dave can say for sure.

Breaktru · « **Reply #104 on:** May 09, 2014, 08:02:41 AM »

I've wired the 1A charger both ways to the board and directly to the batt.
Some modders have had issues wired to the board, so to be safe, wire it to the batt.

Boonos · « **Reply #105 on:** May 09, 2014, 08:31:06 PM »

i had issues wiring directly to the board, i didn't proof the charging feeds prior to epoxying it all. it wasn't a faulty charger as i tried 2 chargers so would say there was either something wrong wrong with the charger feeds or it was my dodgy soldering. I'll be wiring directly to the batt from now on.

david4500 · « **Reply #106 on:** May 10, 2014, 06:25:01 AM »

Thank you!

eddie8111 · « **Reply #107 on:** May 30, 2014, 12:39:21 PM »

Any1 know any highstreet outlets that stock the hammond boxes as rs wont serve general public and want do get my build done this weekend

sikosam · « **Reply #108 on:** May 31, 2014, 09:33:52 AM »

just a quick heads up, ordered a DNA 30D chip by Evolv from perfectionvapes.com , they appear to have them in stock $49.99. I'm excited

Jasen · « **Reply #109 on:** June 07, 2014, 08:59:37 PM »

Although I've yet to complete my 1st. build hasn't stopped m from designing my next. I've read about the OLED connection being fragile, I've got this notion of twisting the OLED 90* is that just crazy thinking, will it mostly likely snap off?

Learfx · « **Reply #110 on:** June 08, 2014, 02:01:17 PM »

Quote from: Jasen on June 07, 2014, 08:59:37 PM

Although I've yet to complete my 1st. build hasn't stopped m from designing my next. I've read about the OLED connection being fragile, I've got this notion of twisting the OLED 90* is that just crazy thinking, will it mostly likely snap off?

check the beginning of this thread... http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,1051.0.html I asked the same question, yes from what I understand it was designed to be used in a tube mod, the ribbon cable will handle being bent in a 90* or 180* angle. I'm assuming you mean bending it and not actually twisting the ribbon cable in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction.

Jasen · « **Reply #111 on:** June 08, 2014, 02:13:45 PM »

FX, I've got the idea of mounting the board flat on it's back above the batts facing up, but I'd like to twist the OLED 90* and have it showing through the side of the box. I'm trying to trim the height of the box a bit, but maybe I'm only saving an 1/8" or so, which would be pointless

Learfx · « **Reply #112 on:** June 08, 2014, 02:21:18 PM »

I would say you're asking for trouble trying to twist it that much... : ) I think the cable is too short and never designed to be twisted in that way. Maybe someone else here has tried, dunno.

Breaktru · « **Reply #113 on:** June 08, 2014, 02:46:10 PM »

90degrees does put a lot of stress on the cable. I would avoid doing it.
If you must do it, do not force it beyond where it flexes naturally. Like shown below..

Jasen · « **Reply #114 on:** June 08, 2014, 11:42:44 PM »

I was hoping it was nearly as flexible as a ribbon cable.

CraigHB · « **Reply #115 on:** June 09, 2014, 02:01:34 AM »

Not even close. Those cables are called FPC for flexible printed circuit board. They're flexible in the planar axis, but that's it, they're stiff otherwise. It's a plastic laminate they use so it's not very soft. Can't be twisted much at all or it transfers the torque right to the connector. Though, there are surface mount FPC connectors available that clamp onto the ribbon. They're small and they're pretty tough, surprisingly. Unfortunately, they use a direct solder connection to the PCB which is delicate.

Jasen · « **Reply #116 on:** June 09, 2014, 08:04:15 PM »

I knew about flexible PCB's but didn't realize that is what was used in this instance.

CraigHB · « **Reply #117 on:** June 10, 2014, 10:52:02 PM »

Those are the type that just contain the connections, like a ribbon cable. Other displays actually have SMD components on those FPC cables so they are in fact flexible PCBs in that case. Let me see if I can find a good example, here ya go;

http://www.newhavendisplay.com/images/large/NHD-5.0-800480TF-ATXI-front_LRG.jpg

BTW, those displays are from Newhaven. I love those guys. They don't have China vendor prices, but they have a great selection of small displays and shipping is fast. I use their COG FSTN types in my mods.

Jasen · « **Reply #118 on:** June 10, 2014, 11:33:03 PM »

The one you link is definitely not China pricing, but looking around the site, a lot of the prices seem reasonable.
Booked marked that site because if I keep hanging out here I'm going to end up getting into this kind of stuff.

CraigHB · « **Reply #119 on:** June 11, 2014, 12:35:44 AM »

Well, that's a larger 5" TFT display. That one lists for $34 dollars, that wasn't the price they're showing, it was just an example purchase. Those larger TFT displays aren't particularly cheap from China either. The small ones are pretty cheap at Newhaven, the OLED displays are over priced, but the COG and small TFT ones aren't bad, around $10.

Newhaven doesn't carry any of the really small OLED displays which is what I think most people are interested in. You pretty much have to get those from a China vendor, well maybe Digikey has them but they won't be cheap from them, they'll ship fast though. Pretty much all of the small displays are made in China so you need to go to a China vendor to get the unusual ones. Then you have the big wait on shipping which sucks.

Here's one similar to the one used in the DNA20/30, that's a China vendor;

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/0-84-inch-ssd1306-96x16-pixel-oled-display-manufacturer-i2c-blue-on-black

Jasen · « **Reply #120 on:** June 11, 2014, 07:24:02 PM »

I tell ya, I'm a relatively patient guy, but some of those China vendors........
I have found a couple vendors that had reasonable ship times.
Still waiting on an order I placed at FT on March 4th.

CraigHB · « **Reply #121 on:** June 11, 2014, 08:57:27 PM »

I've bought stuff from Fasttech before. Can't beat the prices, but shipping is really slow. I think my last order took almost a month, at least 3 weeks.

I've had China vendors get stuff to me in as little as 10 days through the normal channels though. Don't really understand where the difference lies. I tend to think it's in the service on their end. Customs can hold stuff up sometimes, but it doesn't happen all the time. Usually it goes to USPS once it's in the country and they're pretty consistent so I don't think it's them.

Jasen · « **Reply #122 on:** June 11, 2014, 09:25:18 PM »

10-14 day's or so is reasonable to me from China or Western Europe to the North Western US in these modern times because I'm more then old enough remember 4-6 weeks to get something delivered out of the Sear's and Roebucks, Woolworths or Montgomery wards catalog.
How did we every survive.

I'm getting OT, sorry.

I'm planning/designing to do a DNA30 in the next few months is why I asked about the flexibility of the FPC.

Visus · « **Reply #123 on:** June 17, 2014, 07:42:01 PM »

Break has made the celebrity page of clones
They finally photo-shopped instead of just using a copied picture and its horrible photo shopping too (leftside).
They still have Mamu's mod up too.

http://www.szvapetech.com/product/class/

CraigHB · « **Reply #124 on:** June 17, 2014, 08:37:45 PM »

So what do they do, just stalk the net stealing pictures of any mod saying, "yeah, we'll make that for you?"

Visus · « **Reply #125 on:** June 17, 2014, 09:11:45 PM »

Quote from: CraigHB on June 17, 2014, 08:37:45 PM

So what do they do, just stalk the net stealing pictures of any mod saying, "yeah, we'll make that for you?"

It would seem so

So many countries out there who probably most popular B&M mods, are one of those..
They only get to that page because of that reason I would suspect.. Popularity..

Break nailed it, it is right...

Breaktru · « **Reply #126 on:** June 17, 2014, 09:14:22 PM »

Ha, Ha
They did a poor job photoshopping the 510 connector after removing the drip tank.
You can tell that it's my photo by the left top screw sitting higher than the top base.

Visus · « **Reply #127 on:** June 17, 2014, 09:19:47 PM »

Lol Bastiges
Talk about lazy didn't even notice that

miskol · « **Reply #128 on:** June 18, 2014, 03:26:20 AM »

Quote from: CraigHB on June 11, 2014, 12:35:44 AM

Here's one similar to the one used in the DNA20/30, that's a China vendor;

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/0-84-inch-ssd1306-96x16-pixel-oled-display-manufacturer-i2c-blue-on-black

so this SSD1306 driver is kinda famously used for display drivers is it. i bought an OLED from Adafruit (same like what Breaktru used for MCU with DNA 12). unfortunately the prepared driver examples are for Arduino.

i got it working to load and run the OLED for PIC18 by porting the essential OLED protocols from the Arduino code, but thats it, stuck at that progress. i sure hope to continue to be able to write string and stuff with the display using PIC....

Learfx · « **Reply #129 on:** June 18, 2014, 08:22:27 AM »

Has anyone here successfully made a tube mod using the DNA 30? I'm trying to find a Resettable fuse that's small enough to fit into a 3/4" ID copper tube. I've looked at this http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/LR4-550F/?qs=F6FIpiMdEVaHbjIxPqNJYw== and one of the other mounting type fuses posted here but they seam to be a little too big... I'm trying to make the mod as short as possible using a single 18650 battery. Any help would be appreciated.

CraigHB · « **Reply #130 on:** June 18, 2014, 06:12:50 PM »

Quote from: miskol on June 18, 2014, 03:26:20 AM

so this SSD1306 driver is kinda famously used for display drivers is it. i bought an OLED from Adafruit (same like what Breaktru used for MCU with DNA 12). unfortunately the prepared driver examples are for Arduino.

i got it working to load and run the OLED for PIC18 by porting the essential OLED protocols from the Arduino code, but thats it, stuck at that progress. i sure hope to continue to be able to write string and stuff with the display using PIC....

That's one thing about the Microchip stuff, C libraries are lacking for even the popular display controllers. You should check the Microchip web site to see if they have anything for that controller, but you'll probably have to continue hacking until you get it working. I do the graphic displays in assembly if you can believe that, yes it's exceedingly tedious and I'm probably the only person on the planet who does that.

Quote from: Learfx on June 18, 2014, 08:22:27 AM

I'm trying to find a Resettable fuse that's small enough to fit into a 3/4" ID copper tube.

I would run a couple in parallel from this product line;

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/resettable_ptcs/littelfuse_ptc_lorho_datasheet.pdf.pdf

You can make a simple host board for them or solder wires to them directly. I would use a host board with the parts stacked myself. Keep in mind you can run the hold current somewhat under maximal demand. Two of the 4.5A hold fuses in parallel should be fine.

Learfx · « **Reply #131 on:** June 18, 2014, 07:48:51 PM »

Quote from: CraigHB on June 18, 2014, 06:12:50 PM

I would run a couple in parallel from this product line;

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/resettable_ptcs/littelfuse_ptc_lorho_datasheet.pdf.pdf

You can make a simple host board for them or solder wires to them directly. I would use a host board with the parts stacked myself. Keep in mind you can run the hold current somewhat under maximal demand. Two of the 4.5A hold fuses in parallel should be fine.

I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. This is what I've come up with. I'm thinking it's correct. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1210L450SLWR/F5790CT-ND/3661932

CraigHB · « **Reply #132 on:** June 19, 2014, 05:59:04 PM »

You're welcome, my pleasure.

Yup that's the one. With two in parallel you'll have a hold current of 9 Amps and a trip current of 18 Amps. Maximum draw for the DNA30 is 12 Amps so you're less than 50% over the hold current which should be fine.

Keep in mind PTC fuses are heat driven and since an e-cig operates intermittently and provides a cooling interval, it reduces the chance of a false trip. You could actually get pretty close to the trip current without the fuses going off, but keeping it under 50% over the hold current provides a good margin.

Bigwhiterabbitt · « **Reply #133 on:** June 19, 2014, 09:15:16 PM »

Hi everyone. New guy on the Forum here, treading water and looking worried lol.. Just been busy trying to find out how to start a topic and realising I cant yet so please forgive me if I'm posting in the wrong place. I've a load of questions like any noob but I'll keep that for later. Posts up above about bending the DNA30 screen cable round have me interested though.. Is it possable to bend it (crease it) at a 45 degree angle to the board without damageing it?

CraigHB · « **Reply #134 on:** June 20, 2014, 05:39:48 AM »

You probably wouldn't want to crease the ribbon cable, but you might be able to get away with it. It's risky since those thin copper traces in there would get stressed and they could snap. Don't think it's worth trashing a board to find out. Otherwise you don't really don't want to twist it, but if you have to, refer to reply #113 above.

Learfx · « **Reply #135 on:** June 20, 2014, 08:48:14 PM »

Quote from: CraigHB on June 19, 2014, 05:59:04 PM

You're welcome, my pleasure.

Yup that's the one. With two in parallel you'll have a hold current of 9 Amps and a trip current of 18 Amps. Maximum draw for the DNA30 is 12 Amps so you're less than 50% over the hold current which should be fine.

Keep in mind PTC fuses are heat driven and since an e-cig operates intermittently and provides a cooling interval, it reduces the chance of a false trip. You could actually get pretty close to the trip current without the fuses going off, but keeping it under 50% over the hold current provides a good margin.

Thanks again Craig... Those babies are nice and small = D they are about 3.4 mm in length If I'm looking at the data sheet correctly. It shouldn't be too tough to solder them on a board of some kind... I'll definitely have the room I was hoping for.

CraigHB · « **Reply #136 on:** June 21, 2014, 01:57:22 AM »

Yes, they're 3.2mm long and 2.5mm wide. With two stacked, the height should not be more than 2.5mm either. Pretty small, even with a little host board. Should be no problem to put them inline with some heatshrink tubing on them, easy peasy.

Don't know what they did to make the SMD ones so much smaller, but as far as I can tell they have pretty much the same specs as the much bigger through hole ones. I find they tend to sit right in the middle of the resistance range specified so you should be looking at no more than 4 mOhms with the both them, not much power loss at all there.

Learfx · « **Reply #137 on:** June 25, 2014, 03:14:25 AM »

Got these in yesterday, nice and small. I just had to post a pic = )

CraigHB · « **Reply #138 on:** June 25, 2014, 05:26:34 AM »

Yeah, they're nice parts. I've used the 3.5A ones, those are the 4.5A ones. They work really well.

Bigwhiterabbitt · « **Reply #139 on:** June 26, 2014, 12:32:36 AM »

Is it as simple as glueing those fuses to a piece of board, soldering on connecting wires and covering it with heatshrink or is there a lot more to it? (sorry total noob here learning as I go. Lots of experience working with RC cars and stuff but a bit out of my depth here with these smaller components)

Visus · « **Reply #140 on:** June 26, 2014, 01:42:54 AM »

Mamu has a post how she does those smd fuses.

http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=1055.0

the gluing it down is awesome man o man when i did some smd thingys they were sliding around everywhere, even trying to hold it with tweezers. small dab stick and solder awesome..

CraigHB · « **Reply #141 on:** June 26, 2014, 01:59:08 AM »

That's true generally when working with SMD parts. If you hand solder stuff, it can be difficult to hold small parts in place. Don't have that problem with reflow soldering, but that's a whole other skill.

Bigwhiterabbitt · « **Reply #142 on:** June 26, 2014, 12:35:20 PM »

Thanks for the link V just checked that out. So those fuses can actually touch? That was the bit that was confusing me lol..

jimjay · « **Reply #143 on:** September 30, 2014, 02:50:28 PM »

hi sorry for the thread hijack nice mod

can anyone tell me what the value of the cap in the picture is please as i blew it and need to replace it before i buy new board