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Shrug it off and chalk it up to learning experience, runaway. I've fried a few boards in my time.
I have a quick question for anyone willing to answer. Based on Mamu's okr circuit: Does a high amp rated momentary switch need to be used? I was following a different schematic but it seemed that the switch was completely separate from pin #2. Breaktru pointed out that I wasn't getting the full use of the mosfet following the diagram that I was using. I'm now planning my build around Mamu's diagram but would still like to use the momentary switches that I have at hand (that are not high amp rating).
Hi everyone , and thanks for adding me!....i am new to this, and trying to learn as much as i can from reading everything i can here , so forgive any stupid questions i might ask .i suppose , like everyone else.....i have spent more than enough on new items, in search of the perfect Vape for me........and never quite achieving nirvana.....but i does teach you what it is thats lacking , one of those things being Power supply and longevity of vape you get before having to swap out batteries.....not always convenient ! at the moment , i probably go through 6 x 18650's a day !....PITA!SO my first question would be........ could you swap out the OKR-T/10.....for the (example) OKL2-T/20-W12N2-C chip..?....would same components and schematic apply...?.....and if you could ....would you even want to??....maybe the power delivered would be over-kill...
Looks like the same part to me. 5A is actually quite a bit for series cells. At 7.4V nominal, it's good for 37 Watts input to the regulator. You wouldn't be able to do super low resistance with that, but it would be fine otherwise. An 800 mOhm atomizer in a mech is less than 20 Watts nominally. Most people don't vape regularly with much more than that. I haven't seen any polls, but based on what I've seen people talk about that seems to be the case. I normally vape around 20W myself. That battery holder is designed for a standard 2C Li-Ion and 5A is close to the limit on those. If you're using high drain cells, you wouldn't want the protection board anyway. A protection board is a big source of power loss at high currents.
Hey guys and gals, ive been reading this thread and others here and elsewhere about building an okr-t10. At this point I just don't grasp the entire process enough to feel comfortable buying parts and tools to build it so decided to buy one pre-built. I was hoping some of you gurus could answer some questions centered around using one safely and properly. First off I understand that .6 ohm is the lowest that you want to go at 6 volts because of the 10 amp limit. What I'm wondering is, is there a benefit to device longevity or safety ect to maxing out a .6 build versus a lower ohm build with less power but still 10 amps? If swapping out batteries isnt an issue whats the best available battery brand and model for an okr-t10 device? Does the device cut out when they drop to a certain lvl or do I need to monitor that? Is it recommended to swap the left and right battery mid cycle? First post here so long and lost of questions but these are what Ive been unable to verify from the source. I got a hexohm okr-t10 if that helps answer my questions. Thanks guys and very appreciative of the help offered here, and I plan on using this device as a sort of DIY startup kit because I have heard things will eventually break down.
So Manu where would I supplement the 4.7k resistor if I use one of the schematics down below? I really am kinda an idiot when it comes to this stuff. Sorry to be a big pain in the butt, once I understand things I will not be. Glad I am still waiting on some parts! And do you know if I can find that at like radioshack or Home Depot or something. Really appreciate he patience.
Is it ok to use 30 amp batteries on an okr 10 chip
I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.
Current Limit Inception 19 Amps (98% of Vout setting, after warm up)
Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts." I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery. All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.
Yes that was confusing me too because the site that sells the duke says "Works best with paired batteries rated under 15 amps. Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts." I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery. All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.
I poke around EFC, there's a lot of good info there, if your willing to weed through to find it, but to many rules for me, I hang out at Vtron, more good info and friendly helpful people, but I always seem to learn more here from this friendly knowledgeable bunch.