Author Topic: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit (Read 520858 times)

runawaytrainn · « **Reply #250 on:** April 28, 2014, 01:44:38 PM »

Should I get this one?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BK-18650-PC4/BK-18650-PC4-ND/2330513

mamu · « **Reply #251 on:** April 28, 2014, 02:03:49 PM »

Yes, the MPD batt sled would be doable more so than the ebay one. Keystone are preferred, but seems they are oos.

CraigHB · « **Reply #252 on:** April 28, 2014, 02:12:07 PM »

Quote from: mamu on April 28, 2014, 01:20:44 PM

Shrug it off and chalk it up to learning experience, runaway. I've fried a few boards in my time.

For sure, there's no way to avoid this kind of thing one hundred percent of the time, I've done the same. Just have to be more careful next time.

runawaytrainn · « **Reply #253 on:** April 28, 2014, 06:42:58 PM »

omg I think I found the problem. I used a 510 to 510 adaptor for my connector, well I think the pos was touching the neg because I can see it moved enough to do so. if that's what happened will that fry the chip? I ask because I noticed the in line resistor smoked rite off. if the chip is gone ill have to wait a month for a new one as digikey is out rite now ... also is there a way to test the chip?

david4500 · « **Reply #254 on:** April 28, 2014, 09:46:09 PM »

you can find some okrs in stock here

http://octopart.com/okr-t%2F10-w12-c-murata-12666778

runawaytrainn · « **Reply #255 on:** April 28, 2014, 11:17:54 PM »

hi david, thx I just ordered 2 of them

does anyone know if I can use this schematic with out using caps??

http://postimg.org/image/53i3evesp/

fullthrown · « **Reply #256 on:** April 29, 2014, 08:38:10 PM »

I have a quick question for anyone willing to answer. Based on Mamu's okr circuit: Does a high amp rated momentary switch need to be used? I was following a different schematic but it seemed that the switch was completely separate from pin #2. Breaktru pointed out that I wasn't getting the full use of the mosfet following the diagram that I was using. I'm now planning my build around Mamu's diagram but would still like to use the momentary switches that I have at hand (that are not high amp rating).

david4500 · « **Reply #257 on:** April 29, 2014, 10:12:24 PM »

the spec sheet says the current draw for the remote pin is 1 mA

fullthrown · « **Reply #258 on:** April 29, 2014, 10:16:19 PM »

Hm, ok. I think I was just getting confused because both the remote pin and vin were connected to switch, whereas the diagram that I was following before was separate:

SilenTDoGz · « **Reply #259 on:** April 30, 2014, 04:43:40 AM »

Hi everyone , and thanks for adding me!....i am new to this, and trying to learn as much as i can from reading everything i can here , so forgive any stupid questions i might ask .

i suppose , like everyone else.....i have spent more than enough on new items, in search of the perfect Vape for me........and never quite achieving nirvana.....but i does teach you what it is thats lacking , one of those things being Power supply and longevity of vape you get before having to swap out batteries.....not always convenient ! at the moment , i probably go through 6 x 18650's a day !....PITA!

SO my first question would be........ could you swap out the OKR-T/10.....for the (example) OKL2-T/20-W12N2-C chip..?....would same components and schematic apply...?.....and if you could ....would you even want to??....maybe the power delivered would be over-kill...

Breaktru · « **Reply #260 on:** April 30, 2014, 06:06:38 AM »

Quote from: fullthrown on April 29, 2014, 08:38:10 PM

I have a quick question for anyone willing to answer. Based on Mamu's okr circuit: Does a high amp rated momentary switch need to be used? I was following a different schematic but it seemed that the switch was completely separate from pin #2. Breaktru pointed out that I wasn't getting the full use of the mosfet following the diagram that I was using. I'm now planning my build around Mamu's diagram but would still like to use the momentary switches that I have at hand (that are not high amp rating).

In mamu's diagram the fire switch is NOT breaking heavy current. If you look closely Pin 2 is connected to the leg of the switch that is always live ( + power) and the switched leg goes to the low current remote pin which turns the OKR on/off.
The way the mosfet is wired it is used for reverse polarity protection and not used for firing on/off. See: Reverse Polarity Protection
And....... as I mentioned to you previously, you are not protected fully from Reverse Polarity protection with the diagram that you posted having the remote (+) wire connected directly to the battery. Move it to the "S" pin of the mosfet

Aromaz · « **Reply #261 on:** April 30, 2014, 11:16:30 AM »

Quote from: SilenTDoGz on April 30, 2014, 04:43:40 AM

Hi everyone , and thanks for adding me!....i am new to this, and trying to learn as much as i can from reading everything i can here , so forgive any stupid questions i might ask .

i suppose , like everyone else.....i have spent more than enough on new items, in search of the perfect Vape for me........and never quite achieving nirvana.....but i does teach you what it is thats lacking , one of those things being Power supply and longevity of vape you get before having to swap out batteries.....not always convenient ! at the moment , i probably go through 6 x 18650's a day !....PITA!

SO my first question would be........ could you swap out the OKR-T/10.....for the (example) OKL2-T/20-W12N2-C chip..?....would same components and schematic apply...?.....and if you could ....would you even want to??....maybe the power delivered would be over-kill...

Welcome Dogz.
Wow, 6 batteries. You must be a heavy sub ohm vaper or your batteries are past their prime.

The OKL2 has different pins connections than the OKR. Do you really need 20 amps? Different value pot and fixed resistor.

Visus · « **Reply #262 on:** May 01, 2014, 02:44:41 AM »

Dogz

I do not know about the OKR up top hitting @ or above 50watts or the OKl etc but I do know the Ti 08100 chip will give you an honest 70 watt vape if thats what you seek.. Its even listed on their data sheet as handling a bit more power underrated @10amps, listed up to 16amps to overcurrent. So you can literally vape ~100 watts with a Ti 08100 and it's efficiency is not that bad even at 50 watts, you would definitely have a longer run time as opposed to vaping mechanical. 6 batts you would probably only need 4 all day, vaping .35-4ohms.. If the OKR is rated like a Ti chip which many say are twins, yeah it will keep you from swapping batts all day and able to dial down or up the power all day long..

These boards blow away mechanicals and they vape identical with the smooth flow. Mechanicals are just easy coolness but @3.6 your changing batts @3.6 these chips are in for a another 3-5 hours down to 3.2-3v, of course theres a longer charge time but run time is awesome.. The trade off is negligible they jump up to 3.6 on the charger, a few minutes longer than normal mech charging..

rhay80 · « **Reply #263 on:** May 01, 2014, 01:41:34 PM »

Hello guys, I am using the t6 chip, I have set it up on the bread board... All connection are OK, but it will only work when the pot is turned up to Max, out put is showing 5.84v have changed the pot, could it be the 220ohm resistor that is the issue (this is soldered to the 5th leg of the chip)

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Breaktru · « **Reply #264 on:** May 01, 2014, 01:55:28 PM »

rhay,
What is the value of the pot? Make sure it's 200 OHM and not 200K ohm.
Max setting is with the pot ZERO'd out, leaving only the fixed resistor in the circuit. I suspect the pot. As you turn down the pot towards min, you are putting more resistance of the pot in the trimmer circuit.

rhay80 · « **Reply #265 on:** May 01, 2014, 02:09:02 PM »

I will check thanks....

rhay80 · « **Reply #266 on:** May 01, 2014, 02:12:14 PM »

that would explain my problem. Thanks they are 100k pot's. Facepalm lol

david4500 · « **Reply #267 on:** May 05, 2014, 03:08:20 AM »

connecting a 200 ohm resistor in parallel to your 100 k ohm pot will bring the pot value to 200 ohm

http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm

not recommended according to the following two posts

Visus · « **Reply #268 on:** May 05, 2014, 05:04:13 AM »

Break has a post about a parallel resistor on the pot he says it jumps, it becomes very non linear..
But it will work as long as you don't mind the jumping.

Breaktru · « **Reply #269 on:** May 05, 2014, 06:53:13 AM »

That's correct Visus. I mentioned this before in 3 different topic posts.
Do not use a parallel resistor.

CraigHB · « **Reply #270 on:** May 05, 2014, 03:12:23 PM »

A pot used in its traditional configuration is linear (as a pot and not a variable resistor). A voltage divider using a fixed and variable resistor in series is non-linear. A voltage divider with a a fixed and variable resistor in parallel is extremely non-linear.

david4500 · « **Reply #271 on:** May 05, 2014, 04:09:39 PM »

i used a 470 ohm pot, had a low voltage of 2.2. it was lower than my 2-wire yellow led voltmeter would read (2.4v needed). i put a 1k ohm resistor in parallel to the pot, making it about 320 ohm. my low voltage is now 2.7 and my voltmeter functions. the first half of the pot wipe increases voltage by only 0.6 (2.7-3.3), a quarter turn from there it increases 0.8 (3.3-4.1), final quarter 1.9 (4.1-6.0)

i'm just a happy camper that the voltmeter works the full range now

Claviger · « **Reply #272 on:** May 13, 2014, 05:02:48 PM »

Hi all, great post and forum here. I have read most of the thread and just wanted someone to please do a sanity check on this list. Plan on using solid 20 ga wire. Switch will go to pin 2 and the zenner diode is for low battery cut off. Are these the right parts? (Yes I know I have an OKR 6 and 10 in the basket

)

So missing is the 510, batteries, wire and that should be it. Thanks in advance.

mamu · « **Reply #273 on:** May 13, 2014, 07:11:57 PM »

I don't see a pull-down resistor for the T6 (10K ohm) or T10 (1k ohm - 4.7K ohm). The T10 is not in stock.

You don't need 5W parts - also makes for a large part and more expense - you can use 1/8W or 1/4W for the resistors and 500mW for the zener.

Also, if you want reverse polarity protection, you'll need a P-FET.

CraigHB · « **Reply #274 on:** May 13, 2014, 08:29:48 PM »

Yes 5W resistors and diodes are big. You don't want to use parts with that high of a power rating unless you have to, and it's not common that you have to.

Claviger · « **Reply #275 on:** May 13, 2014, 08:52:10 PM »

Awesome. Thanks for the prompt response!

mrbump82 · « **Reply #276 on:** May 16, 2014, 03:11:31 AM »

new guy here has anyone here used one of these battery sleds
http://www.batteryspace.com/Battery-holder-Li-Ion-18650-Battery-Holder-1S2P-With-2.6-long-20AWG.aspx

mick8844 · « **Reply #277 on:** May 16, 2014, 04:03:53 AM »

I went and looked at this battery sled, and would like someone that has more electronics experience to see if the pcb that is included in this unit will be ok for our needs. If so I would definitely use it. although it is a bit pricey, I think withe protection that it has it would be cool.

Thanks
Mick8844

M0n0 · « **Reply #278 on:** May 16, 2014, 04:48:44 AM »

No, it will not unfortunately. The internal fusing @ 5amps is not going to cut off amperage at higher outputs on an okr 10. I saw this link http://www.batteryspace.com/Battery-holder-Li-Ion-18650-Battery-Holder-2S1P-With-2.6-long-20AWG.aspx which is more designed for a series circuit (putting the batteries together to total 7v nominal) but that's just food for thought.

CraigHB · « **Reply #279 on:** May 16, 2014, 01:11:18 PM »

Looks like the same part to me. 5A is actually quite a bit for series cells. At 7.4V nominal, it's good for 37 Watts input to the regulator. You wouldn't be able to do super low resistance with that, but it would be fine otherwise. An 800 mOhm atomizer in a mech is less than 20 Watts nominally. Most people don't vape regularly with much more than that. I haven't seen any polls, but based on what I've seen people talk about that seems to be the case. I normally vape around 20W myself.

That battery holder is designed for a standard 2C Li-Ion and 5A is close to the limit on those. If you're using high drain cells, you wouldn't want the protection board anyway. A protection board is a big source of power loss at high currents.

M0n0 · « **Reply #280 on:** May 16, 2014, 01:14:06 PM »

Quote from: CraigHB on May 16, 2014, 01:11:18 PM

Looks like the same part to me. 5A is actually quite a bit for series cells. At 7.4V nominal, it's good for 37 Watts input to the regulator. You wouldn't be able to do super low resistance with that, but it would be fine otherwise. An 800 mOhm atomizer in a mech is less than 20 Watts nominally. Most people don't vape regularly with much more than that. I haven't seen any polls, but based on what I've seen people talk about that seems to be the case. I normally vape around 20W myself.

That battery holder is designed for a standard 2C Li-Ion and 5A is close to the limit on those. If you're using high drain cells, you wouldn't want the protection board anyway. A protection board is a big source of power loss at high currents.

Thanks for clarifying Craig!

Ctarno · « **Reply #281 on:** May 16, 2014, 07:33:32 PM »

Hello all! So I know you have heard this a million and one times, but I am really really new to the modding game....shocker lol! I am trying to attempt to build and okr t10. I am bad with schematic drawings and am a true visual learner does anyone have the patients to walk me thru a build or point me to a really great video or anything. This is very much outside every comfort box I have. So any help would be really really greatful. Thank you all.

Visus · « **Reply #282 on:** May 16, 2014, 08:16:50 PM »

Ctarno Howdy,

Look up steeljan on yt she gives great helpful vids then after her if you watch come back here and get busy with the good quest questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DG-LRlSHFVM

Ctarno · « **Reply #283 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:27:47 PM »

ok so if i have mamu's tutorial on the okr chip, and from what i have been reading on the forum this would be a good place for a modder to start? i feel really dumb because i have read it about 100 times, there seems to be some great schematics on here but i really don't have background reading them, so its kinda like greek. so i have a hammond box 1591a and most of the stuff for the build, will that box be good for a 510, i have some from fat daddy? second all the stuff on mamu's pdf is all i should need for the okr build, if not will you guys point me in a right way? thanks starting to get

mamu · « **Reply #284 on:** May 17, 2014, 01:13:56 AM »

If you're referring to the Dena how-to, it will get you through the basics of modding with an OKR. The guide was written about 3 years ago and for the T6, but still applies except for the wiring (use 20ga for input/output and 22ga-24ga for all other wiring) and if using the T10 use a 4.7K pull-down resistor, not a 10K.

joshleeman · « **Reply #285 on:** May 18, 2014, 12:17:03 AM »

Hey guys and gals, ive been reading this thread and others here and elsewhere about building an okr-t10. At this point I just don't grasp the entire process enough to feel comfortable buying parts and tools to build it so decided to buy one pre-built. I was hoping some of you gurus could answer some questions centered around using one safely and properly. First off I understand that .6 ohm is the lowest that you want to go at 6 volts because of the 10 amp limit. What I'm wondering is, is there a benefit to device longevity or safety ect to maxing out a .6 build versus a lower ohm build with less power but still 10 amps? If swapping out batteries isnt an issue whats the best available battery brand and model for an okr-t10 device? Does the device cut out when they drop to a certain lvl or do I need to monitor that? Is it recommended to swap the left and right battery mid cycle? First post here so long and lost of questions but these are what Ive been unable to verify from the source. I got a hexohm okr-t10 if that helps answer my questions. Thanks guys and very appreciative of the help offered here, and I plan on using this device as a sort of DIY startup kit because I have heard things will eventually break down.

Ctarno · « **Reply #286 on:** May 18, 2014, 01:06:26 AM »

So Manu where would I supplement the 4.7k resistor if I use one of the schematics down below? I really am kinda an idiot when it comes to this stuff. Sorry to be a big pain in the butt, once I understand things I will not be. Glad I am still waiting on some parts! And do you know if I can find that at like radioshack or Home Depot or something. Really appreciate he patience.

mamu · « **Reply #287 on:** May 18, 2014, 01:45:53 AM »

Quote from: joshleeman on May 18, 2014, 12:17:03 AM

Hey guys and gals, ive been reading this thread and others here and elsewhere about building an okr-t10. At this point I just don't grasp the entire process enough to feel comfortable buying parts and tools to build it so decided to buy one pre-built. I was hoping some of you gurus could answer some questions centered around using one safely and properly. First off I understand that .6 ohm is the lowest that you want to go at 6 volts because of the 10 amp limit. What I'm wondering is, is there a benefit to device longevity or safety ect to maxing out a .6 build versus a lower ohm build with less power but still 10 amps? If swapping out batteries isnt an issue whats the best available battery brand and model for an okr-t10 device? Does the device cut out when they drop to a certain lvl or do I need to monitor that? Is it recommended to swap the left and right battery mid cycle? First post here so long and lost of questions but these are what Ive been unable to verify from the source. I got a hexohm okr-t10 if that helps answer my questions. Thanks guys and very appreciative of the help offered here, and I plan on using this device as a sort of DIY startup kit because I have heard things will eventually break down.

You're saying that the people that you bought the mod from can't (or won't) answer your questions? I would bug em til they do.

There's too many variables to properly answer your questions without knowing the build. I looked at cravingvapor.com, and there's no info on how the build was done - can't tell if pin 1 was used (would provide safe low voltage batt protection if using a zener - otherwise there is no low voltage batt protection - if you don't pay attention the batts will drop to an unsafe low voltage). I don't see any fuses or P-FET (so no fuse protection or reverse polarity protection).

Yes, keep an eye on uneven discharge and switch batt positions mid-voltage.

As for sub-ohms, you can do whatever as long as you don't exceed max watts or max amps of the converter. These converters do take a beating though when running at full-tilt all the time and don't have great longevity when maxed or above maxed.

As for batts, I only use 30A Sony or LG - have had great results with them plus they have the lowest internal resistance of all 18650 batts - you should be able to go the distance with a 6v or so cutoff (loaded).

Quote from: Ctarno on May 18, 2014, 01:06:26 AM

So Manu where would I supplement the 4.7k resistor if I use one of the schematics down below? I really am kinda an idiot when it comes to this stuff. Sorry to be a big pain in the butt, once I understand things I will not be. Glad I am still waiting on some parts! And do you know if I can find that at like radioshack or Home Depot or something. Really appreciate he patience.

I don't see a schematic??

4.7K is wired across pins 1 and 3 - it's a pull-down resistor to put the on/off control in a logic low state (OFF) so it doesn't auto-fire.

4.7K is a common resistor so Radio Shack or a local electronics shop should have them.

CraigHB · « **Reply #288 on:** May 18, 2014, 02:57:42 AM »

Like mamu said, there's some things you need to know you should be able to find out from the maker. Reverse polarity protection and over-discharge protection is a biggie so they are responsible to provide that information from a safety standpoint.

Otherwise, you can load the regulator up to 10 Amps or 50 Watts, whichever comes first. They [Murata] design their regulators to handle stated output limits without degradation in reliability, though you do have a somewhat higher risk of failure running at higher outputs than lower outputs.

For a converter, loading is mainly a matter of wattage so you won't get any difference in reliability whether you're doing say 5A at 6V versus 10A at 3V. They're both 30 Watts and that's primarily what determines loading. The current limit actually comes from the capability of the circuit board traces. The components themselves are only limited by power output.

Since the 50W/10A rating is continuous and loading for an e-cig is intermittent, it provides a cooling interval which improves longevity to an extent. Not that you should ever over-drive your regulator since there's always a risk, but you probably could without failure.

On the other hand, e-cigs demand converter startup repeatedly which puts wear and tear on the components. Inrush currents occur when a converter starts up that put additional wear on the parts. So, it's probably a wash in longevity between the two factors.

Jashe123 · « **Reply #289 on:** May 18, 2014, 07:25:59 PM »

Is it ok to use 30 amp batteries on an okr 10 chip

memoevapor · « **Reply #290 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:15:48 PM »

Quote from: Jashe123 on May 18, 2014, 07:25:59 PM

Is it ok to use 30 amp batteries on an okr 10 chip

Sony or LG 30A 18650 batts would work fine.

Jashe123 · « **Reply #291 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:20:26 PM »

I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.

Visus · « **Reply #292 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:47:57 PM »

Quote from: Jashe123 on May 18, 2014, 10:20:26 PM

I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.

Oh nooooo if you use a 30 amp battery it will blow the okr up with some really tasty vapor if wicked and coiled with my ry4 in the chamber. If it does not have my ry4 in it, it will only be a sub par vape..

The okr only benefits from higher amp batteries, some people are running 100amp batts with an okr. if coiled with-in specs its @7.5amps @50watts but from rip trippers it will definitely handle quite a few more amps --safely? probably yes, but who needs to vape above 60watts is very ill..

It is a very powerful mod its limit is believe it or not 19amps it will vape over 100 watts

not in specs but its listed as it will do it by the manufacturer.

Quote

Current Limit Inception 19 Amps
(98% of Vout setting, after warm up)

Use your 30 amp batts with confidence-- now if its wired with wimpy wire or bad solder joins then the board will let ya know right away by humming or shutting down with no harm to it..

joshleeman · « **Reply #293 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:53:26 PM »

Quote from: Jashe123 on May 18, 2014, 10:20:26 PM

I'm in pasadena md and there is a huge influx of these "duke" mods around here. Everyone seems to think that you can only use the 10 amp 18650 batteries in the okr 10 mod otherwise it will fry the chip. Is this true? I seem to think that the chip will only take 10 amps from the power supply. But I'm not sure.

Yes that was confusing me too because the site that sells the duke says "Works best with paired batteries rated under 15 amps. Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts." I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery. All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.

CraigHB · « **Reply #294 on:** May 19, 2014, 12:07:26 AM »

Always plenty of sketchy info floating around out there. You really have to filter stuff you read and hear sometimes.

Before I get into this, let me point out that there's always a trade-off for drain limit and capacity (run time). A higher drain battery will typically have less capacity and a lower drain battery will typically have more capacity.

It's usually better to use batteries with a higher drain even if you don't need the high output. There are advantages with high drain batteries that any regulator can benefit from. It's because there's less voltage sag under load with a higher drain battery. That improves performance out of the electronics. Also there is lower impedance from the battery internally. This allows less change in voltage for high changes in load, for example, when a converter starts up. Again this improves performance out of the electronics.

There are cases where a higher capacity, lower drain battery is preferable. If loading is light, you can get improved run times with a high capacity battery. However, there's a point of diminished returns in loading where a high capacity battery will not work as well as a high drain battery. It simply depends on the power output you require.

There is some benefit with series cells when it comes to loading. Since input voltage is doubled, input currents are halved so that threshold were you need to go from a standard battery to a high drain battery occurs at a higher power output.

They're probably recommending batteries under 15 Amps drain to take advantage of the higher capacity a lower drain battery offers. However, batteries like the LG HE2 and Sony VTC5 are approaching the capacities of a standard battery. You're only taking a hit as little as 500 mAh for the high drain which I think is well worth the advantages it offers.

The comment you saw saying that 30A batteries will fry your regulator is nonsense. Use the battery that best fits your needs. If you want ultimate electrical performance, use the highest drain batteries. If you want ultimate run times and don't have a need for high power outputs, use the highest capacity batteries.

CraigHB · « **Reply #295 on:** May 19, 2014, 12:58:51 AM »

Quote from: joshleeman on May 18, 2014, 10:53:26 PM

Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts." I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery. All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.

Hmm, that sounds like double talk to me. Voltage is voltage when it comes to safe discharge levels. It doesn't matter if the battery has a 30A drain limit or a 5A drain limit. If they're using some kind of sketchy method in detecting when the battery has been discharged then it's their bad engineering. With a proper detection circuit it should not be necessary to require a particular brand of battery with a particular drain limit to guarantee a safe discharge level.

In any case, it's not a concern. The only batteries that are unsafe to discharge as high as 3V are the LiPo flat cells and that mod uses 18650s. All 18650s have a minimum safe discharge voltage at most 2.7V. The Panasonics are even lower at 2.5 Volts.

Jasen · « **Reply #296 on:** May 19, 2014, 01:14:01 AM »

Another good read and lesson Craig

I poke around EFC, there's a lot of good info there, if your willing to weed through to find it, but to many rules for me, I hang out at Vtron, more good info and friendly helpful people, but I always seem to learn more here from this friendly knowledgeable bunch.

Visus · « **Reply #297 on:** May 19, 2014, 07:36:02 AM »

Quote from: joshleeman on May 18, 2014, 10:53:26 PM

Yes that was confusing me too because the site that sells the duke says "Works best with paired batteries rated under 15 amps. Use of batteries by manufacturers other than Orbtronics or Panasonic requires caution as the chip on the Duke measure amperage rather than voltage. Batteries from Sony and MNKE will continue delivering the amperage required by The Duke leading to current draws below 3.2 volts." I've also heard the Duke maker say the "best" batteries were some Sx22 battery. All the online video reviews I've seen have said VTC3-4-5.

Those batts were king of the hill a year and a half ago, he recommended some of the best batts on the market then, little was known about Sony vtc's or the Lg's..
Eest and AW had uber low mah so his recommendation was awesome and I betcha it's just an old instruction sheet but yet still golden today. But whoa batts, like Craig points out; have gone if your a spaceballs fan, They've gone to plaid! .... Sir, we've never gone that fast before! ...

Jashe123 · « **Reply #298 on:** May 19, 2014, 04:38:38 PM »

Sorry I'm just now getting the time to read and process all this wonderfull info. Thanks again Craig this info will prove to be very usefull when talking to these guys that are swearing by their panasonics 10 amps. Lol. I've been using vtc5's in mine and getting 2 full days out of them before the Zener shuts it down. Again thanks for helping a noob understand better.

CraigHB · « **Reply #299 on:** May 19, 2014, 05:11:10 PM »

Quote from: Jasen on May 19, 2014, 01:14:01 AM

I poke around EFC, there's a lot of good info there, if your willing to weed through to find it, but to many rules for me, I hang out at Vtron, more good info and friendly helpful people, but I always seem to learn more here from this friendly knowledgeable bunch.

There is some good info there, but you really have to fire up the brain filter to browse the posts there. I used to visit that forum, but got tired of people battling what I posted there with bad info. Not to be arrogant and imply that I never post anything incorrect, It happens sometimes, but I really try to make sure I post information that is accurate.