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Do you guys think a bad pot could have caused my short. I looked at everything and nothing else really looked bad
The middle leg of the trimmer should be wired to ground. The resister is wired to one of the outer legs - need to check which leg turns clockwise and which one will turn the voltage counterclockwise. You want to use the leg that turns the voltage from low to high (clockwise).Either cut off the unused leg, or tie it to ground.
I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!
Ok. Im tired of bangin my head on my desk in confusion. Im using breatru's schematic for the okr10. Got it breadboarded with everything going the right way...(seemed like a good idea to test befor soldering.) 2 efest 26650, 3a pb, 220ohm res( one leg to okr and the other to outer leg of pot) 200ohm thumbwheel and two othere trimmer pots...just square instead of round. Iv even pulled everything apart and redid the breadboard. The trouble is I can only get .6 volts out of the okr. On the pot its a single turn thumbwheel. The others are five turn. Doesnt matter what way I turn thm I still o ly have .6 volts. Any thoughts of what im doing wrong?
Another question....where do you guys usually hide these fuses in the box? I'm running out of room in this thing!!
What enclosure are you using? It depends on your layout. Do you have a picture of your current progress?
Just finished my otr-t10 build. Id like to thank breaktru, mamu, and creig for doing the groundwork and all the support youall have done. I couldnt have done it you guys. it has two 26650's 3500mwh and the standard layout of the OP.
So digikey is out of motr okr10,s can u point me in the right direction for the naos raptor?
There's a 10 amp version of the raptor on digikey. Goes to 60 watts, is the same pin out as the okr, and 2 bucks cheaper!
When I get around to it, I can post some blank templates with center lines for the 1590a, 1590b, 1590g, and 1550p. I used a free 2d cad program Qcad to make these. Hammond Manufacturing has 2d & 3d autocad files on their site.
Here's the progress so far on my 2nd box!
Sorry I didn't see you posted that, Dant. Which pot is that? Also, if anyone could help me please, I'm working on my second mod but I can't seem to find out why it's not firing. Everything is wired right. Any suggestions on what to check?
The first thing I would do is put a meter on the input of the board and see if you are reading voltage under load.
Sorry I didn't see you posted that, Dant. Which pot is that?
Ok, so I was wondering just how high I could take my okrt10. I know its rated for 50 watts, but somewhere in the datasheets it says max of 19 amps(correct me if I'm wrong). So I stuck in a .24 dual coil, an set it at 4.5 volts.so again correct me if im wrong, thats (4.5x4.5=20.25) / .24=84.375 watts?
The OKR will cap at 10A or 50W. To know better, take an amperage reading in series with your atty load. Ohms law is not relevant because of the limitation of the module.
You can use a 3D printed voltmeter bezel. I like it for the finished look it gives my mods - and also if I happen to muck up the cutout I don't have to start over or lose a case for it as the bezel covers imperfections in the cutout.This is my voltmeter bezel design shown in the pic, but bapgood sells his voltmeter bezel design at shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0 - both 0.28" and 0.36" voltmeter sizes.I also use Rear Window Tint 20% Limo Black to cover the voltmeter (bought at AutoZone). Sometimes I use Kapton tape to cover the voltmeter, depends on the look I want.