Author Topic: OKR-T/10, T/6, T/3 schematic circuit (Read 520467 times)

mamu · « **Reply #500 on:** August 16, 2014, 03:00:35 PM »

Quote from: itsmedant on August 16, 2014, 02:37:00 PM

Do you guys think a bad pot could have caused my short. I looked at everything and nothing else really looked bad

Only if the non-ground leg of the pot was touching any metal or solder from another connection.

Double-check all connections like breaktru said and make sure no positive connection, including solder at the connection, is touching any metal or touching a ground joint. Double-check the positive and negative atty connections to make sure they are completely isolated and also make sure the insulator is intact isolating the positive connection from the negative connection.

itsmedant · « **Reply #501 on:** August 17, 2014, 01:41:39 AM »

Quote from: mamu on January 30, 2014, 09:16:47 PM

The middle leg of the trimmer should be wired to ground. The resister is wired to one of the outer legs - need to check which leg turns clockwise and which one will turn the voltage counterclockwise. You want to use the leg that turns the voltage from low to high (clockwise).

Either cut off the unused leg, or tie it to ground.

I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....

Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!

Rigure · « **Reply #502 on:** August 17, 2014, 02:53:03 PM »

Ok. Im tired of bangin my head on my desk in confusion. Im using breatru's schematic for the okr10. Got it breadboarded with everything going the right way...(seemed like a good idea to test befor soldering.) 2 efest 26650, 3a pb, 220ohm res( one leg to okr and the other to outer leg of pot) 200ohm thumbwheel and two othere trimmer pots...just square instead of round. Iv even pulled everything apart and redid the breadboard. The trouble is I can only get .6 volts out of the okr. On the pot its a single turn thumbwheel. The other s are five turn. Doesnt matter what way I turn thm I still o ly have .6 volts. Any thoughts of what im doing wrong?

Yep. I feel like an idiot... coler coded the wires so I wouldnt get them mixed up...and still did...twice.
On the bright note..its workin.

mamu · « **Reply #503 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:13:29 PM »

Quote from: itsmedant on August 17, 2014, 01:41:39 AM

I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....

Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!

It could be since as you say that wire is fried, but it shouldn't really matter if ground is wired to middle leg or outer leg. I always wire ground to the wiper (middle leg), but I've seen some wire ground to an outer leg and trim resistor to middle leg with no reports of issues.

If that wire is fried it must have been either touching another connection or solder blob or something that it shouldn't be touching.

Quote from: Rigure on August 17, 2014, 02:53:03 PM

Ok. Im tired of bangin my head on my desk in confusion. Im using breatru's schematic for the okr10. Got it breadboarded with everything going the right way...(seemed like a good idea to test befor soldering.) 2 efest 26650, 3a pb, 220ohm res( one leg to okr and the other to outer leg of pot) 200ohm thumbwheel and two othere trimmer pots...just square instead of round. Iv even pulled everything apart and redid the breadboard. The trouble is I can only get .6 volts out of the okr. On the pot its a single turn thumbwheel. The others are five turn. Doesnt matter what way I turn thm I still o ly have .6 volts. Any thoughts of what im doing wrong?

0.6 volts is the default output of the converter when no resistor or pot is attached to pin 5.

You say you have one outer leg of the pot wired to a resistor and the other end of the resistor leg wired to the OKR (make sure it's pin 5), but do you have the middle leg of the pot wired to ground? And did you make sure that one leg of the resistor connects with pin 5 on the breadboard and that the other leg of the resistor is in a different slot not continuity with the leg connected to pin 5?

Rigure · « **Reply #504 on:** August 17, 2014, 03:20:51 PM »

Yea mamu. I didnt know that the default output was .6 That woulld of clued me in that id screwed up...twice. it was the pot wired to pin four instead of pin five. So now I have the basic idea and I can stick a voltmeter and low voltage cutoff on it. Ty mamu for you quick reply. Hopfully ill get the behemoth polished up soon and post a pic. Ty again.

rrtwister · « **Reply #505 on:** August 17, 2014, 06:15:48 PM »

Quote from: itsmedant on August 17, 2014, 01:41:39 AM

I was reading through everything in this topic and came across this....I was also looking at my box and realize I had the ground connected to one of the outside legs and the resistor to the middle....

Think that's the cause of the short? It was that piece of wire that got fried!!

The trim circuit is all related to ground (-). The only way that I can see a wire on the pot burning is somewhere in the trim circuit is touching or wired to a positive (+) point.

itsmedant · « **Reply #506 on:** August 17, 2014, 09:44:57 PM »

Well everyone, I think I finally figured out what caused my short. When resoldering my chip I noticed the resistor between pin 1 and 3 was touching the wire soldered on pin 4...at least I assume it was.

I made sure it wasn't this time!!!

Thanks for all the help, hopefully I'll have all of this done tomorrow and can come back with success instead of more questions!

blkbd · « **Reply #507 on:** August 17, 2014, 11:53:21 PM »

Ok I have every thing test wired and the unit fires and reads battery power but will not read power that the atty is firing at, I'm using one of those .28 micro led read out with the two wires. any ideas ? Also the only things I thing I changed was to wire the negative center pin and outer pin as one on the pot as its a 3 leads and a 5.6 zener on pin 1 the purple wire.

blkbd · « **Reply #508 on:** August 18, 2014, 01:51:50 AM »

I think I found the problem, It's late and will let you know how it went.

itsmedant · « **Reply #509 on:** August 18, 2014, 10:32:07 PM »

So I wired everything back up tonight and when I put the second battery in it sparked and nothing worked.

Do you think this is due to me possibly damaging the chip on my first short??

I double checked all the wiring and my connections and they followed mamus diagram perfectly, I even coated the connections with liquid electrical tape to make sure nothing was shorting.

I'm starting to think I'm not cut out for this build!!!

blkbd · « **Reply #510 on:** August 18, 2014, 10:41:23 PM »

Got my meter reading, Boy a color schematic makes all the difference in the wold tracking problems as I forgot to wire a trace to one of the wire leads. The only problem is when I cranked up the voltage to full the meter went crazy, I just grabbed a atty from my collection to test and when I ohm-ed it was .35

and anything over 4 volts was causing the meter to freak as I was way over the watt limits.

So play safe and check you ohm's and ohm's calculator first.

Now the hard part.....Squeezing it all in the case!

itsmedant · « **Reply #511 on:** August 19, 2014, 12:04:46 PM »

Just ordered the fuses Mamu was talking about in her awesome write up about fuses....and a new breadboard.

I'm going to rip everything out (again) and wire it up on a breadboard exactly how I did it in the box and see if I can figure out whats going on and where my skill level runs out!!!

Hopefully I'll have some good news to report back to you guys in a few days

itsmedant · « **Reply #512 on:** August 19, 2014, 12:43:49 PM »

Another question....where do you guys usually hide these fuses in the box? I'm running out of room in this thing!!

david4500 · « **Reply #513 on:** August 19, 2014, 10:47:46 PM »

Quote from: itsmedant on August 19, 2014, 12:43:49 PM

Another question....where do you guys usually hide these fuses in the box? I'm running out of room in this thing!!

What enclosure are you using? It depends on your layout. Do you have a picture of your current progress?

itsmedant · « **Reply #514 on:** August 19, 2014, 10:54:11 PM »

Quote from: david4500 on August 19, 2014, 10:47:46 PM

What enclosure are you using? It depends on your layout. Do you have a picture of your current progress?

Right now everything is removed. I've decided since I've had such bad luck in the 1590g, I'm going to put it in this huge enclosure just to get it working. Once I get it working, I'll work on getting it back into the 1590. I'm still trying to figure out why it sparked when I put the second battery in. Any thoughts? I double checked the wiring afterwards and it was all done correctly

itsmedant · « **Reply #515 on:** August 20, 2014, 11:06:26 PM »

Alright guys, still have no idea what caused the first short but I have completed my build and it works!

I did the first schematic, so nothing special. I'm going to try and add everything else later.

Thanks for all the help!!

Rigure · « **Reply #516 on:** August 28, 2014, 12:43:07 AM »

Just finished my otr-t10 build. Id like to thank breaktru, mamu, and creig for doing the groundwork and all the support youall have done. I couldnt have done it you guys.

it has two 26650's 3500mwh and the standard layout of the OP.

Breaktru · « **Reply #517 on:** August 28, 2014, 07:40:00 AM »

Quote from: Rigure on August 28, 2014, 12:43:07 AM

Just finished my otr-t10 build. Id like to thank breaktru, mamu, and creig for doing the groundwork and all the support youall have done. I couldnt have done it you guys. it has two 26650's 3500mwh and the standard layout of the OP.

Super!
Congrats Rigure

Rigure · « **Reply #518 on:** August 28, 2014, 07:42:43 AM »

So digikey is out of motr okr10,s can u point me in the right direction for the naos raptor?

Breaktru · « **Reply #519 on:** August 28, 2014, 07:51:13 AM »

Quote from: Rigure on August 28, 2014, 07:42:43 AM

So digikey is out of motr okr10,s can u point me in the right direction for the naos raptor?

See: Naos Raptor 20A

Rigure · « **Reply #520 on:** August 28, 2014, 08:17:40 AM »

Thats a big jump from a simple okr build....but im game. Why not...if nothing else I could make a funny "this is how you blister you lip" video...lol

itsmedant · « **Reply #521 on:** August 28, 2014, 12:16:01 PM »

There's a 10 amp version of the raptor on digikey. Goes to 60 watts, is the same pin out as the okr, and 2 bucks cheaper!

david4500 · « **Reply #522 on:** August 28, 2014, 01:25:41 PM »

Quote from: itsmedant on August 28, 2014, 12:16:01 PM

There's a 10 amp version of the raptor on digikey. Goes to 60 watts, is the same pin out as the okr, and 2 bucks cheaper!

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NQR010A0X4Z/555-1161-ND/2270975

even cheaper at sager

http://www.sager.com/nqr010a0x4z-4650455.html

bamanerd · « **Reply #523 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:34:38 PM »

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to the forum, so I thought I'd introduce myself before I begin my project. I've been vaping for just over a year now, and haven't touched a cigarette since

I've been using a mech mod for a few months now, and I've recently been bitten by the "I wanna build a box mod" bug. It really takes hold of you, huh?

I'm a bit of a tech nerd. I work on computers and networks for a living, and have been tearing things apart and building stuff since I was a kid. I just love the stuff. I took electronics at Trade School, while in high school some 15 years ago, so I have a basic understanding of DC circuitry. What better hobby than combining vaping with electronics?!

I have a lot of parts on the way. I may build a couple different mods, but I think the first will be the OKR-T10. I've read this thread from front to back, along with a few others including the OKL2-T20 by Mamu. I really want to say thanks to you guys (and gal) for all of the time and effort you put into building these things, and helping others along their bumpy roads of mod making. I've seen some of the stuff Craig does on other forums, but I love the way you all bounce ideas off of one another here. It makes for a great learning environment.

I look forward to getting started, and diving into the action. I will try and exhaust all possibilities before asking too many questions. I will post pics of the progress and final product, since I know that Breaktru loves for the members to post. Hopefully I'll get to the minimum number of posts pretty quickly, so that I can start my own thread.

Thanks for everything you guys do! Keep up the great work, and good luck to all that are working on their own projects!

Breaktru · « **Reply #524 on:** August 31, 2014, 05:52:40 PM »

Hi and welcome to the forum bamanerd.
Nice to read your intro into the ecig world and background. Yeah when the modding bug bites it bites hard.

We're here to help. We have a great bunch of people on this forum that I'm sure will jump in if ever help is needed.

Good luck w/ your build and keep us posted.

itsmedant · « **Reply #525 on:** August 31, 2014, 06:06:05 PM »

Does anyone have a drilling template for boxes? Or at least know how to make one??

I'm going to try and go down one more side to a 1590b in a few days! Got all of my parts ready!

david4500 · « **Reply #526 on:** August 31, 2014, 07:52:28 PM »

When I get around to it, I can post some blank templates with center lines for the 1590a, 1590b, 1590g, and 1550p. I used a free 2d cad program Qcad to make these. Hammond Manufacturing has 2d & 3d autocad files on their site.

Breaktru · « **Reply #527 on:** August 31, 2014, 08:26:49 PM »

Quote from: david4500 on August 31, 2014, 07:52:28 PM

When I get around to it, I can post some blank templates with center lines for the 1590a, 1590b, 1590g, and 1550p. I used a free 2d cad program Qcad to make these. Hammond Manufacturing has 2d & 3d autocad files on their site.

Wow! that's great David

itsmedant · « **Reply #528 on:** September 01, 2014, 01:01:43 AM »

Those are awesome!! I was trying to make them with sketchup. It was printing issues I kept running into!

Those screen cut outs look flawless!! How do you get them so clean? I did my first one tonight and it's about 2-3mm too wide. Now I gotta figure out how to fill in that gap!

Any ideas?? I saw this guy (cajmod) and he uses some sort of tinted screen protector, has anyone out there seen this or know what it is?

Rigure · « **Reply #529 on:** September 01, 2014, 01:05:11 AM »

I havent seen his but I would think that if you cut out a piect of clear 3mm plexi to fit you could just attach your vmeter to the inside of it.

david4500 · « **Reply #530 on:** September 01, 2014, 02:35:48 AM »

Limo/lens/window tint film. Phone screen protectors can also be used.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CCSD5U0/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CMCMN6/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088HRZR8/

mamu · « **Reply #531 on:** September 01, 2014, 04:47:27 AM »

You can use a 3D printed voltmeter bezel. I like it for the finished look it gives my mods - and also if I happen to muck up the cutout I don't have to start over or lose a case for it as the bezel covers imperfections in the cutout.

This is my voltmeter bezel design shown in the pic, but bapgood sells his voltmeter bezel design at shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0 - both 0.28" and 0.36" voltmeter sizes.

I also use Rear Window Tint 20% Limo Black to cover the voltmeter (bought at AutoZone). Sometimes I use Kapton tape to cover the voltmeter, depends on the look I want.

mamu · « **Reply #532 on:** September 01, 2014, 04:53:54 AM »

Quote from: david4500 on September 01, 2014, 02:35:48 AM

All your mods are awesome, David - but this one is totally gorgeous with what you've done with the finish and the perfect cutouts. That had to have taken quite a bit of time, but well worth the results you got - absolutely perfect!

itsmedant · « **Reply #533 on:** September 01, 2014, 02:32:21 PM »

Yea David, that mod is gorgeous!! I can only hope to have something look that great!

One question for you, what pot are you using? I've been trying to find one that is 200ohm that has an actual knob!!

Once again, you're work is now my inspiration! It's amazing!

itsmedant · « **Reply #534 on:** September 01, 2014, 04:23:52 PM »

Here's the progress so far on my 2nd box!

david4500 · « **Reply #535 on:** September 01, 2014, 04:28:33 PM »

Thank you mamu & itsmedant.

The potentiometer is 470 ohm:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P16SNP471MAB15/P16SNP-470-ND/3430484
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sfernice/P16SNP471MAB15/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtC25l1F4XBU5I3Ctbk2GP1LXVYEpmByWs=

I've looked and looked for a 200 ohm with a knob. There isn't much out there. But I did find this, a trimmer with a knob. Look at the data sheet, Mouser's image isn't showing the knob:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3386F-1-201TLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7swPUEOakrxno2Xv5NDoEog=
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3386F-1-201TLF/3386F-1-201TLF-ND/2536921

It should look very similar to the trimmer used in this mod:

Another option is piecing together a pot, shaft and knob:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PT10MV10-201A2020virtualkey53100000virtualkey531-PT10MV-200

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Piher/5116NEI-BLACK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuiwDVLTMm01a5D8EB%252bj%252b9LbO%2fxf%2fy6RG4%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/450-4761/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuiwDVLTMm01an1wsjHLopMsWL%2fb9ZyLjc%3d

david4500 · « **Reply #536 on:** September 01, 2014, 04:32:26 PM »

Quote from: itsmedant on September 01, 2014, 04:23:52 PM

Here's the progress so far on my 2nd box!

Fixed

Misturbubles · « **Reply #537 on:** September 01, 2014, 05:09:05 PM »

David , which pot is that? I have been trying to find one just like that!!

itsmedant · « **Reply #538 on:** September 01, 2014, 05:50:19 PM »

Thanks for fixing my pictures! What do ya think of it so far?

david4500 · « **Reply #539 on:** September 01, 2014, 06:13:19 PM »

Layout, holes and cutouts all look nice.

Misturbubles · « **Reply #540 on:** September 01, 2014, 06:16:26 PM »

Sorry I didn't see you posted that, Dant. Which pot is that?

Also, if anyone could help me please, I'm working on my second mod but I can't seem to find out why it's not firing. Everything is wired right. Any suggestions on what to check?

Breaktru · « **Reply #541 on:** September 01, 2014, 07:23:01 PM »

Quote from: Misturbubles on September 01, 2014, 06:16:26 PM

Sorry I didn't see you posted that, Dant. Which pot is that?

Also, if anyone could help me please, I'm working on my second mod but I can't seem to find out why it's not firing. Everything is wired right. Any suggestions on what to check?

The first thing I would do is put a meter on the input of the board and see if you are reading voltage under load.

Misturbubles · « **Reply #542 on:** September 01, 2014, 07:39:48 PM »

Quote from: Breaktru on September 01, 2014, 07:23:01 PM

The first thing I would do is put a meter on the input of the board and see if you are reading voltage under load.

Ok so I took off the button and went straight to pin 2 with power. Connected positive of meter to ground of chip, negative of meter to negative of the batteries (completing circuit, right) and I'm getting the right voltage of both batteries. How would you recommend I check it, if you would do so different?

Breaktru · « **Reply #543 on:** September 01, 2014, 09:46:48 PM »

Voltmeter neg to pin 3 and voltmeter pos to pin 2. Check without load and then with load of atty.
If there is no drop of voltage w/ load then move meter pos to pin 4

itsmedant · « **Reply #544 on:** September 02, 2014, 03:52:52 AM »

Quote from: Misturbubles on September 01, 2014, 06:16:26 PM

Sorry I didn't see you posted that, Dant. Which pot is that?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TT-Electronics/93PR200LF/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhyn2zzW2wscJ%252brghhA6JaHey6alCLvOaWUlvRjQXEVoQ%3d%3d

They are always out of stock! I just ordered 6 of them with my last order from mouser, got everything else last month....just got these last week! Looks like they are out of stock again. I suggest just putting an order in and then being surprised when they show up!

Great thing about mouser, when you order alot from them and one thing is out of stock, they usually give you really good and cheap shipping for that out of stock product. My first package took a week to get here. Once the pots shipped they got there in 3 days!

Rigure · « **Reply #545 on:** September 02, 2014, 03:37:25 PM »

Ok, so I was wondering just how high I could take my okrt10. I know its rated for 50 watts, but somewhere in the datasheets it says max of 19 amps(correct me if I'm wrong). So I stuck in a .24 dual coil, an set it at 4.5 volts.so again correct me if im wrong, thats (4.5x4.5=20.25) / .24=84.375 watts?

Breaktru · « **Reply #546 on:** September 02, 2014, 08:20:24 PM »

Quote from: Rigure on September 02, 2014, 03:37:25 PM

Ok, so I was wondering just how high I could take my okrt10. I know its rated for 50 watts, but somewhere in the datasheets it says max of 19 amps(correct me if I'm wrong). So I stuck in a .24 dual coil, an set it at 4.5 volts.so again correct me if im wrong, thats (4.5x4.5=20.25) / .24=84.375 watts?

The max current output is 10A. 19A is the "Current Limit Inception". I don't exactly know how it works but.........
Current limit inception is defined as:
the point at which the full-power output voltage falls below the specified tolerance.
If the load current, being drawn from the converter, is signifi cant enough, the unit will go into a short circuit condition.

The OKR will cap at 10A or 50W. To know better, take an amperage reading in series with your atty load. Ohms law is not relevant because of the limitation of the module.

Rigure · « **Reply #547 on:** September 03, 2014, 12:21:29 AM »

Quote from: Breaktru on September 02, 2014, 08:20:24 PM

The OKR will cap at 10A or 50W. To know better, take an amperage reading in series with your atty load. Ohms law is not relevant because of the limitation of the module.

Allright. So heres a noob question...howdo I take a reading?
From the top posts of the atty?

Visus · « **Reply #548 on:** September 03, 2014, 03:49:21 AM »

Rigure if you do not have a really high end meter most will only do 10amps

but its super easy just make a series connection placing the meter in between the atomizer and the 510 connection

This is how I do mine

Rudimentary picture:

Disclaimer: if you try to measure over 10 amps or above your meters amps capacity it will either blow your meter to bits or blow an internal fuse.

itsmedant · « **Reply #549 on:** September 03, 2014, 02:27:58 PM »

Quote from: mamu on September 01, 2014, 04:47:27 AM

You can use a 3D printed voltmeter bezel. I like it for the finished look it gives my mods - and also if I happen to muck up the cutout I don't have to start over or lose a case for it as the bezel covers imperfections in the cutout.

This is my voltmeter bezel design shown in the pic, but bapgood sells his voltmeter bezel design at shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=Volt+Meter+Bezels&s=0 - both 0.28" and 0.36" voltmeter sizes.

I also use Rear Window Tint 20% Limo Black to cover the voltmeter (bought at AutoZone). Sometimes I use Kapton tape to cover the voltmeter, depends on the look I want.

Do you have access to the STL file from that 3d design? I just got a 3d printer and I would love to try and make one!