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I had an email from a friend on UKV and he uses this module when i told him the problem he said a couplke of the 04050c range have a lower output.Thanks for all help will assemble my new modules as soon as they arrive and report finding back here so we can analyse findings. Hey guys if nothing else it gets us thinking cheers guys off to bed 01:15Kev
2C for a a protected 14500 is 1.5A, but I think you can get 2A out of them before the protection tips. That's way too low for a booster, but you can run two in parallel and possibly get by as long as the protection doesn't trip.
Kev,It's the 04050a series that are ALL 6 Watts. The 04050c series are ALL 12 Watts.Look at the previous post link to TI.com for the data details.
See previous post on Battery amperage:http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,215.msg2403.html#msg2403
new to e-cigs in Nov 2011 & just getting ready to try my 1st mod build....so glad I found this site & all the great info/builds you've posted! if I fail at building my own mod, I may have to see about getting one made by you...yours are amazing! thanks for posting & for the e-juice calculator app too!!
Forgive me for being such a newb, but am I reading this thread right that a 15K resistor will give me a fixed output of 4.2v?
i got a bunch of silicon in and am ready to start building but i have one question about touch switch what parameters do i need to stay within on the specs IE (30v .028 ohm 24A) i would like to know a solid range of which i could work with and breaktru if you could send me a copy of the new resistor -voltage range table i would greatly appreciate it
With the new resistors shown in my schematic diagram, I feel that the Resistor / Table is no longer needed becausethe new voltage range is now something like 3.78v to 6.2v.See posting: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,215.msg2061.html#msg2061
The TI website has about 8 different PTN 4050C models. Which one are people using?
Hey Breaktru, I'm new to the forum. I've been looking for a small stealth mod for some time, and this bad boy sure caught my eye! I've breadboarded the whole circuit as per your p-channel touch switch schematic, but I have a couple questions:1) My 100K potentiometer (single turn) seems to want to stay at 3.99 volts until you turn it half way, so you only have a half-turn to adjust from 3.99 to 6.3 volts. It is really touchy and sensitive, although you can indeed adjust through the range with careful fine adjustments. Have you encountered this?2) I'm using the same p-channel mosfet as in your diagram (the dpak), and I can turn it on by touching only the lead from the gate (with either a 10M, 15M, 22M, or 30M resistor). I haven't tested it out with an atty yet, I'm just using one of those voltage testers for 1s-6s li-po batteries. I'm wondering what the purpose of the 1k resistor to ground is as the second contact in the touch sensor?3) I'm planning on sticking all this into a 3AA battery box (with on/off switch) and internally mounting the atomizer connecter (hoping to hide most of my carto and muffle the sound of it firing). I'm wondering if that little switch will be alright at the voltage the box will be handling, and also if I should have it breaking the ground wire, or the positive wire coming from the battery? Thanks for all this great info, I'll be sure to post some images if / when I get this thing working!
does it matter if I use CAD or CAH?
Awesome, thanks for the clarification! I'll swap out that tiny switch with a 3A, and play around with how the MOSFET behaves when an atomizer load is attached. About the touch switch though, does this mean I don't need both touch contacts? I can just (for example) put a screw through the box and solder the gate / high resistor to that? I don't know a lot about electronics, but lately I've been reading everything I can, and it seems a bit strange that I can activate it by only touching my finger to the one lead coming from the gate / high resistor.
I got it all working now, but I noticed something a bit funny. Everything works great on a full charge, but after an hour or two of use, the touch switch does not seem to fully open the MOSFET (unstable voltage drops). I'm running the negative contact to ground with a 1k resistor, and using a 22M as the high resistor on the MOSFET. The voltage seems to drop and not stay stable, but if I lick my finger or use a piece of metal on the touch switch, I get a fully opened gate. Would replacing the 22M resistor with a higher (say 30M, or add a 10M for 32M total) resistance, or removing the 1k ground resistor solve this?
I am realizing this now lol. I now have 52M of resistance, and it works for longer, but it still starts to only partially open the gate before the battery is dead. I'm using an atomizer connector as a touch switch, which works great, except for one thing I discovered this morning. If you have an actually "wet" finger (after rinsing my coffee filter), the air hole and groove around the centre positive pin are a perfect moisture trap. The unit will stay on with water in there, and it takes quite a while to try it out lol.I'm wondering if you could use the same circuit replacing the touch switch with a small 50mA tactile switch, do you think that there would still be too much current going through it? I have 2 more 4050 boards, and in the near future I plan to build 2 more 3xAA box mods. This build is mostly a prototype build for me to figure out the layout and type of components I prefer, plus I threw it together rather quickly so it's not as pretty as most I've seen lol.
I am realizing this now lol. I now have 52M of resistance, and it works for longer, but it still starts to only partially open the gate before the battery is dead. I'm using an atomizer connector as a touch switch, which works great, except for one thing I discovered this morning. If you have an actually "wet" finger (after rinsing my coffee filter), the air hole and groove around the centre positive pin are a perfect moisture trap. The unit will stay on with water in there, and it takes quite a while to try it out lol.
I made one of these today and wanted to say thank you break for posting all the info to make it possible not worthy
ok whatif im wanting to go digital pot with touch for adjust anyone got a drawing (schematics) for that one
When you click "REPLY", you will see "Additional Options" below the text box. Then "Attach .... browse.Sounds like you connected it like the schematic/diagram. Try using one outside leg and just the middle leg of the pot and let's see what happens.Not that you wired it wrong.Another note: I have used countless 04050c converters in the past and never had a problem until recently. The latest batch of 04050c's, at least the last 3 of them, I had the same problem not being able to vary the voltage. All I got was battery voltage out. Even removing all the caps and leaving Pin 3 empty w/ no resistor across Pin 3 & 4. It should have given me 5.0v out but instead I only saw battery voltage. This suggests that the convert is at fault and not the additional components.If you can't get it working, try removing all as I described above, leaving just the circuitry for battery Input Pin 2 to Batt (+), Pin 1 to Batt (-) and measure voltage at Pin 4 (+) to Pin 1 (-)
I think I have the same problem with what I built with the help of a friend... i'll have to check the chipboard I used to mount it though, coz I think it got cracked... 6V don't feel like 6V, instead, I think I just get battery voltage
I don't see why not. That would be cool.Fitting both in a .44 mini AA box would be some feat. You would have to use the smallest package size of the mosfet and the dig pot. and try to squeeze in the tact switches or switch where the pot would go.The schematic's are in this forum. Just combine the two. One in this thread at: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,215.msg1550.html#msg1550and the other: http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,177.msg1956.html#msg1956
A multimeter would be handy for trouble shooting or you will never know what your output is. Also you can use it to see if there is a break in your board.
checked it a few days ago, and it's indeed battery voltage... i'll see if we can rebuild it... gonna try to get rid of the chipboard totally... will try testing the regulator as well